Click to go to Audubon Society of Omaha Home Page Audubon Society of OmahaEastern Bluebird

Welcome to The Bluebird Box since 1995
Best of Bluebird Mailing Lists Classified

Use of Grease for Predator Control on a Bluebird Trail

In addition to Messages that have appeared in the Bluebird Mailing Lists on this topic, the following are on the Audubon Society of Omaha website:  Predators and Problems On The Bluebird Trail


Subj: RE: Predator control
Date: 9/21/99 6:48:23 PM Central Daylight Time
From: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)

Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant Texas
I spent the day a couple of Saturday's ago helping the Wild Turkey Federation sponsor a "Women in the Outdoors" my part was building nestboxes from kits we donated and talking about birds. It was a pretty big deal with several state biologists, one very active personally with bluebirds. He even gave my voice a break and gave the "bluebird" talk to one group and did a very good job! On predators he was quite tough! Teaching to get rid of all predators in the area of your trail. House Sparrows, snakes and raccoons were to be eliminated which surprised me with him being in uniform. He feels the raccoon is the greatest threat to many birds from the Whooping crane to the bluebird and that we should all work on eliminating this pest year round!

Although a 4" PVC pipe when new, stops most climbing predators. He recommends using a grease coating on the pipe also. To make the grease last longer (stay softer) they use Harry Krueger's idea of adding real turpentine (not paint thinner) to the grease and have found that this helps repel snakes better than some of the other recipes of grease softeners. He also recommends adding a little sulfur dust to the mix since this seems to repel even more predators especially snakes in their tests. The type grease used is not critical he claimed but just enough turpentine to add creaminess and enough sulfur to add scent really helped reduce predators. With the right mix a single coat would remain soft & last the entire nesting season for woodducks and bluebirds even protecting them from fire ants.

Most monitors with 'coon problems have found that raising the guard pipe off the ground and attaching it so that it is loose and will wobble around the mounting pipe will reduce the chances of a 'coon learning to climb the post and the guard pipe. Ron Kingston uses this method with very good results but uses metal duct pipe of 7" diameter or more & about 24" long. I worry about spray silicone becoming tacky after a few weeks and actually making it easier to climb the pipe! I don't like the thought of constant maintenance but those using this method should comment on their results and thoughts on this treatment. I haven't used the Carnuba car wax but understand that it needs to be applied to 1/2" EMT conduit that has been polished with steel wool and then apply the wax. this may or may not work on any other mounting pipe and I believe Steve Eno from Nebraska is working with 'coons and said they can even climb the 1/2" EMT so treated with the Carnuba under captive conditions.

I checked out the reach on a yearling boar coon today and he can easily reach into and down inside the NABS style nestbox 6" with the 1&9/16" round
entrance hole & 3/4" thick front. He has more reach into the same box with the Peterson entrance hole. I may try to experiment with drilling the entrance hole up on a 45* angle on some boxes next year since this forces the 'coon's hand and arm up to the roof of the box and he could not turn it down into the nest area. This will make the entrance hole 1 &1/2" deep (with 3/4" wood) and running uphill on a steep angle so bluebirds may not like this style but it would be safer for the birds. All this shows is that once a 'coon reaches the nestbox he can clean out nearly any style! KK

 


Subj: RE: Predator control
Date: 9/21/99 11:38:46 PM Central Daylight Time
From: james-walters"at"uiowa.edu (James P. Walters)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: james-walters"at"uiowa.edu
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu

Grease? Yuk. Not only because it's messy, but because no matter how you deal with it, some or all of it is going to end up in the soil, water, landfill, or elsewhere. Not to mention the amount that's going to get ingested by raccoons, etc., either in cleaning themselves, or when they are eaten by someone else up (or down) the food chain. Keep the grease on the squeaky wheels!

An excellent predator guard for pole mounts is described in the plans booklet that accompanies Connie Toop's Bluebirds Forever (Stillwater, MN: Voyageur Press, 1994). Properly installed, these will prevail against all climbing predators - including snakes. This guard uses 5- or 6-inch galvanized vent pipe.

We use these on all our pole-mounted houses and they have eliminated all raccoon predation. Cost is less than $2.00 per house. We've had some up for seven years now without any rusting or lack of effectiveness, although you could probably wax them for longer life and effect.

Jim Walters james-walters"at"uiowa.edu
Johnson County Songbird Project
1033 E. Washington
Iowa City, IA 52240-5248 (319) 466-1134
U.S.A.
 


Subj: Re: Predator control
Date: 9/22/99 12:45:26 AM Central Daylight Time
From: springer"at"alltel.net (Gary Springer)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: springer"at"alltel.net
To: james-walters"at"uiowa.edu
CC: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L), springer"at"alltel.net (Gary Springer)

Dear Jim,

If you have been following this list closely you know that I am very, very much for staying as natural as possible. I really had to think a lot on this subject of grease on poles because in my experience when applied to a one inch diameter EMT galvanized pole, nothing reaches the box. As another person posted, its obvious when something has tried to climb it because marks are left in the grease. Very rarely does anything fool with it.

At this point I am not convinced that about 2 ounces of grease on this pole negatively affects anything. I have dry skin and at a dermotoIogist's recomendation I apply Vaseline to my face arms & back after every shower. I have been doing this for 20 years and most people think I'm 10 to 15 years younger than I am. Vaseline is petroleum jelly. I am not a chemist but I would venture to say that Vaseline is nearly the same thing as axle grease and that the small amount of difference in composition between the two substances would be less hazardous to the environment than the gaseous, solid and liquid waste created when manufacturing one baffle, especially if its galvanized.

I would appreciate learning what the differences in composition of vaseline vs. common axle grease is and in what quantities they exist in two ounces of grease.

If the difference is that great, I will start to use vaseline. It will still be less expensive, less noisy, and I believe safer from racoon predation than baffles.

Most of us mount our nest boxes low enough so that we can monitor them without climbing. If you have to install a baffle between the thus predetermined height of the box and the ground, you lower the distance a racoon has to jump to get up to the box, even if its only an inch or two.

Further, with the baffle system, you still haven't addressed the problem of fire ants. There are absolutely no fire ant problems with greased metal poles.

...

 


Subj: grease/oil contamination/fire ants
Date: 9/22/99 9:27:03 AM Central Daylight Time
From: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)

Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant Texas
Yes I am also concerned about grease/oil in the environment. I love this subject. In 1964 we moved to Titus County Texas where oil was first discovered in east Texas (by accident, fabulous story) in the 1920's. They quickly built an oil refinery in Mt. Pleasant, 12 miles south of the main oil field. By 1933 the huge oil field was discovered in Kilgore Tx. 80 miles south by the 4 men who got rich off of the Talco field (Happy Jack Phillips ((Phillips petroleum)) & another who formed Texaco ETC). These two fields were just brought "online" by 1939 and they produced 4 billion barrels of oil "at"$3 a barrel in the next 6 years to fuel the allies 7 billion barrels of oil consumption for WW2 another 2 billion barrels came from west Texas fields, South America and other states produced 1 billion.
One of the taxes the city/county fathers imposed on the refinery was that they furnish oil and asphalt for free to our county. 400 miles of county roads were covered with 4" of "oil dirt" and 100 miles of city streets. By 1950 Titus county boasted they were the first county to have all hard surfaced roads in the state. In 1964 the county commissioners were putting in "oil dirt" driveways for everyone in the county for free! We got one and I was fascinated with the oil bubbling out of the "dirt" on hot days and the grasshoppers getting stuck in the "tar pits". I hated burning the bottoms of my bare feet on the oil roads and mother hated us tracking oil into the house,(couldn't take off shoes we didn't wear!)

Each mile of road ("at" a 22' width) covers about three acres of land, Each ton of sand requires one barrel of oil, it takes 15,000 tons per acre foot of "oil dirt" to cover a single mile of road so we had 7.5 million barrels of dinosaur fat spread over 1,500 acres of land. By the 1970's it was discovered that Titus county had 4 times the cancer rates of the surrounding counties without "oil dirt" roads. After 15 years of government studies investigations stopped because the other counties had caught up to us (they also had "oil dirt" roads).

It was and still is legal for oil companies to mix any hazardous waste into asphalt for roads...Ever sit at a road construction site and watch the smoke coming out of the "hot mix"? Ever get nauseous smelling it? Ever wonder if oil rendered from dinosaurs is more dangerous than oil rendered (cooked) from cows, chickens and pigs? I believe that rendered fat in our diet is still the leading cause of heart disease & deaths in the US. I wonder if using a few more barrels of grease a year to save a few thousand birds from death by fire ants will really have any noticeable effect on the environment? How many miles of asphalt roads are there in your county? KK

 


Subj: RE: Predator control
Date: 9/22/99 12:01:48 PM Central Daylight Time
From: dusty"at"fsinc.com (Dusty Bleher)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: dusty"at"fsinc.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu

I agree with you, James. I was going to read the rest of the list posts before I jumped in on this one, but I find myself having to agree with you first.

Look, I'm as interested as anyone in helping animals in general, and our BB's in particular. And to that end I'll do a lot. I'll even reluctantly destroy the nests of HOSP's and other nesting competitors. I too want to keep raccoons and other non-avian hunters from predating the nest. But using petroleum based products on them is a bit too far out for me. Better that you shoot the varmint. At least that's quick and it won't suffer. Grease in the fur will destroy it's ability to keep the animal dry and/or warm. Depending upon your climate, it can suffer terminal hypothermia. In an effort to groom itself, it will ingest these products. They are in and of themselves in varying degrees toxic. If not directly by ingestion, then by other effects upon their internal systems (I'll let Fread supply the details on this). I've spent enough time doing volunteer rescue work on oil and petroleum covered birds and critters to know that an animal that's ingested those is usually put on the short list for survival efforts.

I applaud and wholeheartedly support your barrier efforts, James. I know that it's not applicable in all situations, but I've taken a page out of the guy from So. Cal. experiences, and am making all of mine hanging boxes for just that reason...

Dusty Bleher
San Jose, Ca.

...

 


Subj: Re: grease/oil contamination/fire ants
Date: 9/22/99 12:56:05 PM Central Daylight Time
From: birdsfly"at"innercite.com (Hatch Graham)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: birdsfly"at"innercite.com
To: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
CC: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)

Hi All:
I appreciate Gary and Keith's efforts to put grease in its proper perspective. I've kept the grease idea in the back of my mind since the coons mazzzcred most of my birds in 1997.  I put my boxes on elevator poles because my trail is on a State Highway Right-of-way fence. Now, instead of being mounted on the fence posts at 4.5' high, they are still on the fence line but are 9' up on 1/2" EMT pipe for the upper 4.5'.

The reduction in predation was immediate in the 1998 season, and 1999 was my best year ever. I lost birds to the heat but not one to a ground predator in 1999. I believe it's possible for a raccoon to climb up the 1/2" pipe and for a snake, also; but it takes a lot of effort and they won't do it if they can get something else for a meal "cheaper."

If someone decides to climb one of my elevators, I won't hesitate to get out the graphite spray or the axle grease.
Hatch in California.

...

--
Hatch Graham, Editor, Bluebirds Fly! California Bluebird
Recovery Program
El Dorado County "at" 3100 ft, Lat 38°37'43"N, Long 120°37'47"W
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
for the encouragement and conservation of cavity
nesters
-especially bluebirds- anywhere in the West

 



 

Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 09:08:18 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: nest box pole greasing instructions/ants

We are covered up with fire ants here in Northeast Georgia but since I use greased metal poles I have never seen a single ant on a nest box.

And, there is nothing that attract ants better than sugar water in a hummingbird feeders.

But I mount my humming bird feeders using the same greased metal poles I use for nest boxes.

No ants will ever cross a 6 or 8 inch wide band of grease applied to a metal pole. The grease needs to be removed and reapplied annually in the spring.

FOR NEST BOX POLES:

The smoother metal poles are, and the fresher the grease is, the more unlikely any creature will be able to climb them.

I use one inch EMT poles that cost only about $3.50 each for a ten foot length. These I pound directly into the ground which takes about 5 minutes. ( I now use the entire length of pole and that puts the box up about 8 and a half feet, but I used to cut the poles so the boxes were only 6 feet high The birds have yet to use one of the shorter poles since installing the taller ones.)

When the first eggs are laid, I apply a band of grease onto the pole that stretches from about 6 inches from the ground up to about 3 feet above the ground. I don't gob it on but I do make it thick enough so it can be easily seen.

Immediately after the birds fledge, wipe the grease off taking time to 'polish' the entire pole with the greasy rag. I do not try to leave grease behind. The intent is to remove the grease so it doesn't get hard making for a difficult job for the next nest attempt or the following year.

But, when you are done 'polishing' the pole with the greasy rag, not only will it be smoother, but there will still be a slight invisible film left behind and this will help keep the galvanized finish smoother for more years of great service.

Other than providing safe nesting sites for birds, one of the advantages of using this system is that you will always know if anything ever tries to climb the pole.

I've heard claims that snakes have been trained to climb a greased metal pole for food, something I would love to see. But after being discouraged after years of removing many black snakes from nest boxes mounted on wooden posts, utility poles and high up in trees in both Pennsylvania and Georgia, I began using these greased metal poles.

Not only have I never seen another snake in a nest box, but, it is quite obvious by looking at the condition of the greased poles, that nothing has ever even crossed the two and a half foot greased band at the bottom of the 6 foot or 8 foot metal pole.

I don't know how you feel about 'your' birds. But it gives me an awesome feeling knowing that absolutely nothing ever goes from the ground up to one of my nest boxes. And, it gives me an even more awesome feeling knowing that if anything ever tries, I will know about it.

Gary Springer


Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 11:55:12 -0400
From: "v. m. straus" v.m.straus"at"mail.wdn.com
To: springer"at"alltel.net
Cc: "List, Bluebird" bluebird-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: nest box pole greasing instructions/ants

Gary Springer wrote:

We are covered up with fire ants here in Northeast Georgia but since I use
greased metal poles I have never seen a single ant on a nest box.

Gary and everyone on the List, I have a question.

I've read many notes about greasing poles, etc. for predator prevention, but never have seen any comment about what happens when grit gets caught in the
grease. Here where we live in Maryland, there is a lot of pollen, dirt, etc. that seems would get caught in the grease and would give the predators a "foot hold" eventually, because of the grit becoming sort of like sand paper, especially as the grease hardens over time.

I've also wondered about using something like paste wax instead of grease, since if I polished the wax, it would not collect grit.

Since we have loads of raccoons, possum and black snakes, I'm constantly worried about them getting into the Gilbertson boxes that I have mounted on the conduit poles which I use. In the past, some predator, probably either a raccoon or black snake, wiped out a robin's nest (one that was move to a tree from a hanging basket when painters were painting the house) so I have confirmation that it can happen.

Any comments would be appreciated. VMS


Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 12:37:48 -0400
From: "D. H. Snook" dhsnook"at"sssnet.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Guards, Grease vs. Wax

For the first year, I used black #2 grease on a 4" PVC pipe on the  ground. It had to be applied 2 or 3 times a season because it dried and got full of dirt. Very messy, but effective. I used a wide texture paint brush to apply the grease and finished with horizontal brush strokes around the PVC pipe. I could see claw marks on every post which were vertical. Nothing ever got more than 1/2 way up.

I replaced all guards 3 years ago with 2' PVC pipe, 4" diameter. I put 2 coats of Kit Wax (Carnuba) on each guard and suspended the guard from the top, just below the bird house to allow the bottom to wobble. Each spring all that is needed is to clean of the winter dirt and apply one coat of wax.

I have never lost an egg or chick from ground predators. All losses have been from HOSP and HOWR. I guess some areas of the country have monster snakes that can reach the box by standing on their tail, fortunately not here.
Doug Snook


Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:38:28 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "NESTBOX-L" NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu, "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: Grease maintenance

VMS wrote:

Here where we live in Maryland, there is a lot of pollen, dirt, etc. that seems would get caught in the grease and would give the predators a "foot
hold" eventually, because of the grit becoming sort of like sand paper, especially as the grease hardens over time.

You will have this experience everywhere, not just in Maryland.

That is why the grease is applied when the first egg is laid and removed after the birds fledge, a period of about 30 days.

This process is repeated with each nesting so the grease can not get hard.

Yes, if you leave the grease on for 10 months or longer, it may be easier for the predators to climb the pole than if you use no grease.

But, if your grease is getting tacky after only 30 to 35 days, get a new brand of axle grease.

When you get your oil changed, almost any lube service or service station will give you free of charge enough grease to treat 5 or more poles for one fledge each. Just provide them with a small jar or disposable cup. If they won't give it to you, offer them a tip or get your lube job done somewhere else.

Gary Springer


Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:49:00 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu, "NESTBOX-L" NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: correction to nest box pole greasing instructions/ants

When I wrote the post on instructions for greasing metal poles I was sitting in front of my computer and estimated the width of the greased band and
described it as:

When the first eggs are laid, I apply a band of grease onto the pole that stretches from about 6 inches from the ground up to about 3 feet above the ground.

I just measured the width of grease on three of my nest box poles and found them to go up to a height of about 4 and a half feet.

Therefore, please substitute "about 3 feet above the ground" to "4 and a half feet above the ground".

Sorry,

Gary Springer


Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 14:48:16 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu, "NESTBOX-L" NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu,
"Laura Agnel" agnel"at"ils.unc.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: grease vs. wax/grease types

Waxing nest box poles is not nearly effective for eliminating predators as is grease.

First, I can't imagine a wax effective enough that would be able to make a galvanized pole slick enough to keep ants off the box.

Second, if you use wax, I think a predator that knows for sure there are chicks in your nest box will try to get up to the nest box repeatedly. It may even come back for several days making repeated and separate attempts at climbing the pole. Animals are extremely persistent when food is within reach. And, eventually he may develop the strength or technique to successfully climb the pole, especially because he may have scraped some of the wax off with its claws.

But, because predators just haven't fooled with the grease at all on my nest box trail, I am inclined to believe they do not like fooling with it. I can't blame them. I don't like it on my skin either. From what I am experiencing the animals are putting their nose to the grease and deciding right away it is something of which they want no part. These are smart animals.

Can you imaging if you were a snake and got grease up under your scales or if you were a raccoon and got it in the fir on your arms, belly and neck? Would you keep on trying to climb a pole you had to go up 6 or 8 feet to get a meal when you only made it three feet and all you got was messy disgusting
stuff all over you?

Third, If a snake or raccoon tries to, or successfully climbs a waxed pole and raids your nest box on the eve of the fledge date, you will never know. That is a huge disadvantage.

One of the nicest parts of using axle grease on metal poles is that you will always know if something tries to climb the pole. You will also know if the creature was a mammal or a snake because of the type of marks it left in the grease.

And, though as of this writing nothing has been able to pass the grease band by even 2 inches or even made more that a casual attempt, if something is successful in getting 2 or 3 inches above the grease band, you better believe I will put gobs of grease on the pole and the band will then be 6 feet wide, so if the predator comes around again, he will really get messy, messy enough to never want to even see any of my nest box poles again.

Laura Agnel asked what kind of grease I use.

I use a standard petroleum axle grease made by Exxon that is of a greenish tint.

It is not a silicone grease.

I had a friend apply a gray silicone grease to a nest box pole and it was left on the pole for a whole year and, as VMS described, it got just like sandpaper. But, because I never used this grease, I do not know if it would stay slick for 30 to 35 days or not.

I would use whatever axle grease the lube service or service station where you take your car uses in their service bays. I'm sure if you asked BEFORE they serviced your car they would be glad to fill a small disposable cup for you. And, you just might get someone else involved with providing effective nest boxes for the birds.

Gary Springer


Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 08:16:21 -0500
From: "Keith & Sandy Kridler" kridler"at"1starnet.com
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: grease on poles/sheet metal guards

Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant, Texas

Grease on poles does get hard fairly quickly in some locations. Dust storms in the western states can render it useless in a single windblown day. Grease used where cattle can reach the poles will disappear as cattle relish the taste of this product. Adding hot pepper to the grease has no effect on deterring cattle licking the now "hot" grease. Dairy cattle ingesting axle grease MIGHT allow this compound to show up in the milk. (A dairy owner forbid Harry Krueger to apply ANY grease to the nestbox poles on the dairy where cattle could reach them.) Small children invariably end up with grease on them. Yard pets can rub low applied greasy poles and then lay on expensive furniture. You should use the cheap disposable plastic gloves to protect your skin when you apply this grease. To keep grease from hardening you should add 1 quart of gum turpentine (NOT mineral spirits) to 5 pounds of axle grease or about 6 fluid oz. turpentine to 1 pound of grease and this will stay soft for an extra month. (Harry Krueger of Ore City, Texas "non hardening" grease recipe to repel fire ants) A little more or a little less depending on brand of grease. Avoid lithium based grease as exposure to sun and dry winds creates lithium oxide and this is a toxic substance.

Conical sheetmetal guards: When used to protect wood duck boxes they must be 48" in diameter as 36" diameter guards WILL NOT stop even the "small" southern breed of raccoons in Texas. These 48" guards are too large and expensive to be used on bluebird boxes. Wood duck boxes mounted to 120" (10 feet) tall 4" PVC pipe (mounting poles rigidly anchored) WILL NOT stop raccoons from climbing to the top and raiding wood duck boxes! One year of "weathering" the pipe allowed for mass failure of many Texas wood duck colonies. (Research done by Texas Parks and Wildlife) 48" diameter sheet metal guards WILL NOT stop snakes over 72" long from crossing them to reach a nestbox. (Research done by Jack Finch of Bailey North Carolina.)

Sandwich guards: Made from two flat pieces of sheetmetal 18" wide and 36" long and pinned together making a sandwich out of the mounting pole with the
guard 36" tall and 18" wide were VERY effective when first used at stopping raccoons. Using rock climber techniques, they learned to grasp each flat,
sharp edge of these metal guards and simply walk up the guard to reach the nest. These plans are still in many publications 20 years after home video shows coons climbing over them in just seconds.

Ron Kingston's stove pipe guard: This guard mounted as high as possible and allowed to wobble freely is currently the "Best" all around deterrent with the least maintenance to climbing predators and grease can be applied under the guard protecting it from unwanted contact with animals and keeping it cleaner and softer to repel ants longer. It should be made in 8" diameter and not the 7" which is published in some books or publications. I believe Ron mentioned that a typo changed the diameter of the original guard and the mistake has been "copied" repeatedly.

Waxed & polished pipe/conduit:** I believe Steve Eno in Nebraska is or was doing research on climbing abilities of raccoons and don't quote me as this
is third hand but I believe that he found raccoons were able to "easily" climb small diameter, highly polished, waxed conduit to get to food. Maybe
Caroline Hall on the list could pass along this much needed research of Steve's. One of the major problems with his raccoon research was that the
test subjects were constantly escaping a "raccoon proof" pen. **This is ALL second hand knowledge of the raccoon testing of Steve's so if you save or
forward it on to someone this information might be totally wrong! KK


Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:42:18 -0500
From: "Gilliam, Jay" GILLIAMJT"at"phibred.com
To: "'springer"at"alltel.net'" springer"at"alltel.net,
BLUEBIRD-L BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Evidence of Nestbox Robbing

Gary wrote---

"This is especially alarming because unless grease is used on the pole, the snake leaves little or no evidence behind that lets the birder know the nest was robbed."

I would think that some or all of the eggs missing from a nestbox is plenty of evidence to let the birder know that the nest was robbed.

Jay Gilliam
Norwalk, IA


Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:40:18 -0500
From: "Gilliam, Jay" Jay.Gilliam"at"pioneer.com
To: "'springer"at"alltel.net'" springer"at"alltel.net,
BLUEBIRD-L BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Greased Poles

Hi Gary---
I was wondering how you avoid getting grease all over you since you mount your boxes on your telescoping poles (8'-10' high) then apply grease to them. Do you just grease the bottom section?

Jay Gilliam
Norwalk, IA

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Springer [mailto:springer"at"alltel.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 9:05 PM
To: BLUEBIRD-L
Cc: Gary Springer
Subject: Wrens/Weather

When I got tired of the mysterious disappearance of eggs and chicks from my nest boxes, when I became aware that my heart almost stopped beating from the shock of opening a nest box and coming nose to nose with a snake, and when I had enough flying squirrels and winter mice nests on my bluebird trail, I took the advice of the North American Bluebird Society to mount nest boxes on metal poles and make them slick by coating them with grease..

I began mounting them on three quarter inch steel pipe. To connect the nest box to the top of the pole, I used the threaded metal pipe flange made to go on this type of pipe.


Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 12:54:34 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "Gilliam, Jay" Jay.Gilliam"at"pioneer.com,"BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: Re: Greased Poles

Hi Jay,

Using the telescopic system I described a while back in which boxes are mounted 10 feet and higher, the only part of the top pole that is touched during the raising or lowering process is the bottom foot or two. That leaves 8 feet of pole you can grease any way desired. I put no grease on the pole that is pounded into the ground.

Of course there are an infinite number of telescopic mounting possibilities and the one you use will dictate where to apply the grease.

I'll be writing more about telescopic poles in the not too distant future.

Gary Springer

We are finally getting a heavy rain in this holler.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilliam, Jay" Jay.Gilliam"at"pioneer.com
To: springer"at"alltel.net; "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: Greased Poles

Hi Gary---
I was wondering how you avoid getting grease all over you since you
mount your boxes on your telescoping poles (8'-10' high) then apply grease
to them. Do you just grease the bottom section?

Jay Gilliam
Norwalk, IA


Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 03:58:33 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "NESTBOX-L" NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu, "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu, ssprings"at"salmoncountry.net
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: Bears and grease on poles

Hi Dave,

Applying grease to nest box poles as a predator deterrent is a practice that has been widely published, used and debated. Therefore, I suspect that if grease does attract bears to nest boxes, others have had this problem and their experiences will eventually reach us. But you may simply be the first one to recognize this problem.

I am very aware that some mammals do like the taste of grease and it is quite possible the grease is what attracted your bear.

It is also possible the grease had nothing to do with the destruction of your nest boxes.

I have read of bears destroying nest boxes.

If others have had bears destroy nest boxes even though they did not use grease, it may be coincidence that your nest boxes were destroyed the first year you employed grease.

I will forward your post to another list to see if others have had experiences such as yours and also to determine if others that do not use grease regularly lose nest boxes to bears.

I also hope you will post next year to let us know whether or not you continue to have problems with bears even though you have discontinued the use of grease as a predator deterrent.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

Sincerely,

Gary Springer

Original Message:

Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 23:22:21 -0600
From: "David and Kathy Richmond" ssprings"at"salmoncountry.net
To: NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: Wrens/Weather

Gary,
I thoroughly enjoy your posts to this list, but must add one caveat to your briefly-mentioned recommendation of adding grease to your EMT pole. This year, for the first time since 1993 providing homes for MOBLs here in the mountains of Idaho, I applied grease to all nestboxes that had its full contingent of eggs. Out of 26 boxes on my trail, 6 were marauded by a black bear, and each time the EMT had been coated with grease. The dirty deeds (EMT bent over completely, boxes ripped apart and contents swallowed) included 3 broods of MOBLs which were within a few days of fledging. I lost 15 MOBLs and 19 MOCHs to this bear and I'm concerned that the grease may be an attractant to bears, bringing them into close range of the box, then they hear/smell the young inside, and the rest is history.

I don't know if this has ever been investigated or even reported, but you can be sure that I will never use grease on my EMT again. I have had very infrequent problems with snakes in the past, but this year has been disheartening and I'm attributing it to the grease.

So, my suggestion is this: if bears are a possible intruder in your area, don't apply anything, including grease, to your poles. It might just attract the worst kind of predator, and intelligent one that I love to see and experience, but one who has no idea of the value I place on those little birds.

Dave Richmond
Rocky Mountain Blues
6,200 to 7,000 feet elevation in the Central Idaho Rockies


Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 13:49:03 -0700
From: John Schuster John"at"KABAaudio.com
To: springer"at"alltel.net
Cc: NESTBOX-L NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu, BLUEBIRD-L BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu,
ssprings"at"salmoncountry.net
Subject: Grease, Bluebirds and Bears, Oh My!

Dear Friends,

Bears destroying nesting boxes? Now that's a good question. I'm with Gary and David on most of their points, and yes, one could almost say that grease and bears do go hand in hand.

When I worked for CDF we heard allot of stories (some funny some tragic) about campers cooking bacon in their camps and bears in California. However, I'll refrain from telling these stories and will get back to the issue at hand.

Regardless of the grease, and because of the racket the baby BBs make, an opportunistic predator could be attracted to the nesting boxes based on that alone in my humble opinion. However, lets assume for a moment that the grease is actually attracting the bears (which maybe the case).

I would follow David's advice and stop using grease and see what happens, but there is another issue that seems to be over looked that I will bring up later.

If you still think you have to use grease, then lets get rid of the grease and move to a synthetic oil product (STP or equivalent). Synthetic oil products may not be as "tasty" as grease and I remember reading somewhere that synthetic oil produces do not harden, cake or dry out like grease does.

Now here is the bigger picture that I eluted to earlier.

This marauding bear (or bears) is now accustom to and educated by your nesting boxes. It is very likely that it (or they) see your nesting boxes as a source
of food and merriment.

It is my opinion that you should look into a pepper mixer deterrent (I may have one) that you could blend which is not lethal to either predator or prey (like
ground Jalapeņos peppers or equivalent).

By properly applying a pepper solution to the sides of or on the mounting poles (blended with grease, STP or not) of the nesting boxes these marauders will have a new found respect for your nesting boxes. They will then leave them alone and will seek more appetizing and less "HOT" targets elsewhere.

Keep me posted and I look forward to hearing from you in the future.

Happy Bluebird Trails To You,
John Schuster
Field Vineyards and
Wild Wing Company
Cotati, Cloverdale & Potter Valley, CA

Gary Springer wrote:

Hi Dave,

Applying grease to nest box poles as a predator deterrent is a practice that

...


Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 08:21:09 EDT
From: "Rwatts" rwatts"at"mymailstation.com
To: bluebird-l"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re:Grease, Bluebirds and Bears, Oh My!

It is my opinion that you should look into a pepper mixer deterrent (I may have one) that you could blend which is not lethal to either predator or prey (like ground Jalapes peppers or equivalent).

Why didn't I think of this!!! There are several preparations commercially available for horses (who sometimes amuse themselves by beavering at the fences and woodwork). The best I've found is "Cribox", made by the Hydrophane company. It's a paste, easily applied by fingers or a putty knife ("easily" in warm weather, that is, and *don't* rub your eyes if you use fingers!), lasts well, non- harmful. Active ingredient is capsaicin sp?, VERY hot. Should be easy to smear on posts, sides of box, etc.

Try the local feed store or tack shop--if they don't have Cribox they might have something else. But I'm betting on the Cribox as the best shot for coons, too--bet they won't like the taste of their paws after trying to climb a post with Cribox on!! (I notice that the horses seem to get the point when they sniff it.)

Rhonda Watts
Wilton, N.H.


From: "Mandy Hils" ahils"at"insightbb.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)
Subject: Greasing poles
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:06:24 -0400

Hi all,

It looks as if the pair of eastern blues that have been visiting are (maybe?) getting serious about the box out back. What kind of grease should I use on my conduit(mounting) pole? I have had racoon problems in the past, of course last year I had my boxes mounted on trees. (I learned that lesson the hard way)

Sincerely,
Mandy (Kenton cty, KY)


From: TomGaryH"at"aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:43:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Greasing poles
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)

Mandy,

Grease may not stop a raccoon from climbing the conduit. The Kingston 8-inch stovepipe baffle would be a much better choice to prevent raccoons from getting to the box. However, grease is a very good barrier to keep ants from getting to the nestbox. General purpose, chassis, or wheel bearing greases may be used on the conduit. These can be bought at K- or Walmart or auto-parts stores. After application, periodically check and reapply as may be required -the surface of grease tends to "scab" over. Vaseline (petroleum jelly) is also acceptable for stopping ants. The useful life of all of these petroleum products can be drastically shortened by dust, dirt and water (eg., lawn sprinker or rain).

Tom Heintzelman
Milton, Santa Rosa County, FL (western panhandle, inland) U.S.A.
30° 38' 33"N 087° 03' 32"W Zone 8 Eastern Bluebirds


From: "Keith & Sandy Kridler" kridler"at"1starnet.com
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re:Guarding against raccoons
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:55:22 -0500

Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant Texas
Adding oils or grease to wood posts will not deter climbing predators because it will soak into the wood and the posts are normally not very smooth. Oil or grease is sometimes added to metal poles to make it "harder" for climbing predators and even then it only works to a degree!

Snakes will crawl right through extremely thick coatings of grease and when they enter a nestbox they will scrape off a "donut" of grease that sticks around the entrance hole. Extremely thick coatings of grease on metal pipe will often have young raccoons crawl right up and over the grease and it works pretty well at protecting the birds in the nestbox because the young raccoon when it reaches the nestbox top is more concerned with removing the sticky grease than it is with trying to reach in and eat a meal now!!!!

If you have been using grease on poles for many years the older raccoons will have already learned to avoid the grease but it is more of an inconvenience than a deterrent. It probably depends on if they are starving or can get an easier meal somewhere else as to how well this will work. Remember that in urban areas cats roam at night and can easily jump up to 6 feet off of the ground and could clear most baffles and guards on the "average" nestbox height of about 5 feet. For those who "think" they don't have predators coming into their yard , go out and buy three little cans of cat food and open and place them at three different locations on your property and see if something eats them.....

This said the box mounted to a porch is probably safer from "wild" creatures than one mounted down along a rural fence line! These birds face life and death situations every hour of their short lives! Now that you are learning more add a couple of boxes in better locations on better mounting poles for their next nesting but don't be surprised if they return to the "porch" located nestbox!

One of our Texas Master Gardeners protects his garden by installing motion detector lights! At first he simply removed the bulbs and plugged in an extension cord into a light socket adaptor and ran the cord from the garden to his bed where he plugged in a radio.....When a warm body entered his garden the radio came on and he woke up and went "Hunting".....His main comment about this was, "You know I NEVER saw a cat in the yard but that first night I was up six times with three different cats!!!" He learned that installing light bulbs in the motion detectors worked just as well as "hunting" because they have Great Horned Owls nesting close and these birds learned that when the lights came on they had an easy meal "caught in the headlights"...Another master gardener experimented with the motion detector which triggered his electric fence charger.....

Anyway oil or grease on poles works better for ants than stopping real predators. It works better when it is not raining very much or there is not dirt and dust blowing into the sticky stuff....When you mow or use the weedeater and throw grass clippings into the oil or grease you make it easier for them to climb.....KK


Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 03:50:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mary Wilson helenmwilson"at"yahoo.com
Subject: Advice needed on predator protection
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
 

Hi everyone. I have about 80 boxes on poles between two golf courses. For a long time ground predation hasn't been a problem, but as aging and dying trees have been left standing by these envrironmentally aware golf course managers, we are seeing signs now of predation, I imagine by raccoons. With 80 boxes, cost is prohibitive to put stove-pipe guards on all of them. My question is regarding greasing the poles....what kind of grease is best? Mixed with turpentine? Cayenne pepper added in? How far up the pole should the grease be started? Apply it thick, like with a putty knife, or just wipe it on with rag? And, some of these boxes are on T-bar poles. Will grease help on those as well as the round pipes? And, have any of you found this to be effective to any degree? Many thanks for any help you can give.

Mary Wilson
Leamington, SW Ontario (close to Point Pelee National Park) "Sun Parlour of Canada" (haven't lived up to our name this year)


Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 08:53:41 -0400
From: "Fawzi P. Emad femad <at> fpemad <dot> com
Subject: Re: Advice needed on predator protection
To: helenmwilson"at"yahoo.com, BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu

The amount of work needed to keep the grease in good condition will make the price of the stove pipe (Kingston) predator guards a little more attractive. Grease will soon dry and become more viscous thus *aiding* predators in climbing up the post. It will work well for about a month, then it has to be applied again, a very messy job. Get the cheapest grease at an auto store, and buy it by the gallon. It will not help applied on T-posts.

Here, the price of a finished Kingston guard (not counting your labor,) is about $3 per guard. You probably need to apply them to the problem boxes only, but coons can go far... Total price is $240, I agree, not a small amount. If you don't mind the mess of the grease, apply it thick using a spatula and a brush to even it out. It should cover the entire post, from a little above ground to the box. For the T-posts, use the Kingston guards... Fawzi.

Fawzi Emad in Laytonsville, Maryland
femad"AT"comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Wilson" helenmwilson"at"yahoo.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 6:50 AM
Subject: Advice needed on predator protection

...


Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:06:45 -0400
From: Superdups lisab"at"superdups.com
To: bluebirds and cavity-nesting birds BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Is Bag Balm dangerous?

I just recently cleaned out an old abandoned nest box for a neighbor and found it overrun with ants. Living in New Hampshire, I have never had a problem with ants and therefore I had nothing on hand to correct the problem. Thinking quick I brushed away all of the ants, cleaned the box and used my bag balm around the metal pole. It is working for now, and a TUTI has been checking it out. Does anybody know if bag balm was a bad choice or not? Thank you, Lisa


Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:00:08 -0700
From: John Schuster wildwingco"at"earthlink.net
To: lisab"at"superdups.com
CC: bluebirds and cavity-nesting birds BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: Is Bag Balm dangerous?

Dear Lisa and friends,

Bag Balm is not dangerous.

In fact I've been using Bag Balm for years and I can remember the first can that I purchase from O'Neil Drug Store in Petaluma CA back in 1973 and it lasted for years. I use Bag Balm mostly for bad burns, sunburns, and chapped hands, plus Nina likes to use it as a facial moisturizer (which I think is kind of funny) and to prevent chapped lips.

Next to Corn Huskers, Bag Balm is the best.

With that said, what you are using it for is a first. Never have I ever considered using Bag Balm or ever thought of using it for what you are using is for, but I see no reason why you should use it other than the expense.

Because Bag Balm is virtually 100% lanolin, I would like you to continue using it to see how it holds up to the heat. I believe that it will melt and streak down the mounting poles, so keep me posted.

Cheers and as always...

Happy Bluebird Trails To You,
John Schuster, conservationist and owner
Wild Wing Company
Bio-Diversity Products
1179 Debbie Hill Road
Cotati, California 94931
PH: (707) 795-4440
Web site: http://www.wildwingco.com
FIELD VINEYARDS
Check out the Vineyard Cottage offer at: http://home.earthlink.net/~wildwingco/_wsn/page2.html
Cotati, CA
N Lat. +38.33194 & W. Long. -122.69111
Cloverdale, CA
N Lat. +38.80556 & W. Long. -123.01611
Potter Valley, CA
N Lat. +39.27306 & W. Long. -123.0925
Climate Zone: 10a (30 to 35 F)

Superdups wrote:

I just recently cleaned out an old abandoned nest box for a neighbor

...


 

Eastern Bluebird Photo by Wendell Long.  Click on photo to go to Wendell Long Photographs website. Eastern Bluebird.  Photo by Wendell Long

HOME - ASO

BEST OF INDEX
  Table of Contents

Articles
BB-L Reference Guide
Bluebird Box, The
  Table of Contents
Bluebird FAQ
Breeding Bird Survey
Bluebirders Pictures
Calls/Songs
Christmas Bird Count
Commercial Sites
Feeding Bluebirds
Forums/Mailing Lists
Gallery
Groups/Resources
Miscellaneous
Monitor Form
Nestbox Info
Personal Sites

First Egg 2000
First Egg 2001
First Egg 2002
Over Winter 2001
Over Winter 2002

Search

BEST OF BLUEBIRD_L CLASSIFIEDS HOME | Audubon Society of Omaha | The Bluebird Box | Bluebird FAQs | Search | Contact me
All material was originally posted on the Bluebird_L or Bluebird mailing list, and has been reposted here with slight modifications to make the posts more readable in an HTML format.  In cases in which quoted material has been deleted to save space, this is indicated by an ellipsis (...)
For more information about Bluebird_L, check out http://www.cit.corn.edu/cit-pubs/email/using-lists/index.htm. If you wish to contact the author of a post, you will need to edit the e-mail address, replacing "at" with the "at" symbol (above the number 2 on your keyboard). (This change was made to discourage spammers.)
If you are the author of a posting and would like to see a particular post (or posts) removed from these web pages, please contact me with the web page address, title of post, and date and time of the post(s), and I will remove whatever material you like.  If you have a different opinion from one posted here, you need not contact me, as often I will have a different opinion too. The intent is to try and provide both sides to the issues facing bluebirders, and to do so in an impartial and objective manner.
If you have problems, encounter broken links (unless they are within an e-mail thread, as I do not maintain those links), or have suggestions on how the site can be improved to make it more useful, please contact the Best of Bluebird-L Classifieds webmaster
Website design by Chimalis