Use of Grease for Predator Control on a
Bluebird Trail
In addition to Messages that have appeared in the Bluebird
Mailing Lists on this topic, the following are on the Audubon
Society of Omaha website:
Predators and Problems On The Bluebird Trail
Subj: RE: Predator control
Date: 9/21/99 6:48:23 PM Central Daylight Time
From: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant Texas
I spent the day a couple of Saturday's ago helping the Wild Turkey
Federation sponsor a "Women in the Outdoors" my part was building
nestboxes from kits we donated and talking about birds. It was a
pretty big deal with several state biologists, one very active
personally with bluebirds. He even gave my voice a break and gave
the "bluebird" talk to one group and did a very good job! On
predators he was quite tough! Teaching to get rid of all predators
in the area of your trail. House Sparrows, snakes and raccoons
were to be eliminated which surprised me with him being in
uniform. He feels the raccoon is the greatest threat to many birds
from the Whooping crane to the bluebird and that we should all
work on eliminating this pest year round!
Although a 4" PVC pipe when new, stops most climbing predators. He
recommends using a grease coating on the pipe also. To make the
grease last longer (stay softer) they use Harry Krueger's idea of
adding real turpentine (not paint thinner) to the grease and have
found that this helps repel snakes better than some of the other
recipes of grease softeners. He also recommends adding a little
sulfur dust to the mix since this seems to repel even more
predators especially snakes in their tests. The type grease used
is not critical he claimed but just enough turpentine to add
creaminess and enough sulfur to add scent really helped reduce
predators. With the right mix a single coat would remain soft &
last the entire nesting season for woodducks and bluebirds even
protecting them from fire ants.
Most monitors with 'coon problems have found that raising the
guard pipe off the ground and attaching it so that it is loose and
will wobble around the mounting pipe will reduce the chances of a
'coon learning to climb the post and the guard pipe. Ron Kingston
uses this method with very good results but uses metal duct pipe
of 7" diameter or more & about 24" long. I worry about spray
silicone becoming tacky after a few weeks and actually making it
easier to climb the pipe! I don't like the thought of constant
maintenance but those using this method should comment on their
results and thoughts on this treatment. I haven't used the Carnuba
car wax but understand that it needs to be applied to 1/2" EMT
conduit that has been polished with steel wool and then apply the
wax. this may or may not work on any other mounting pipe and I
believe Steve Eno from Nebraska is working with 'coons and said
they can even climb the 1/2" EMT so treated with the Carnuba under
captive conditions.
I checked out the reach on a yearling boar coon today and he can
easily reach into and down inside the NABS style nestbox 6" with
the 1&9/16" round
entrance hole & 3/4" thick front. He has more reach into the same
box with the Peterson entrance hole. I may try to experiment with
drilling the entrance hole up on a 45* angle on some boxes next
year since this forces the 'coon's hand and arm up to the roof of
the box and he could not turn it down into the nest area. This
will make the entrance hole 1 &1/2" deep (with 3/4" wood) and
running uphill on a steep angle so bluebirds may not like this
style but it would be safer for the birds. All this shows is that
once a 'coon reaches the nestbox he can clean out nearly any
style! KK
Subj: RE: Predator control
Date: 9/21/99 11:38:46 PM Central Daylight Time
From: james-walters"at"uiowa.edu (James P. Walters)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: james-walters"at"uiowa.edu
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Grease? Yuk. Not only because it's messy, but because no matter
how you deal with it, some or all of it is going to end up in the
soil, water, landfill, or elsewhere. Not to mention the amount
that's going to get ingested by raccoons, etc., either in cleaning
themselves, or when they are eaten by someone else up (or down)
the food chain. Keep the grease on the squeaky wheels!
An excellent predator guard for pole mounts is described in the
plans booklet that accompanies Connie Toop's
Bluebirds Forever (Stillwater, MN:
Voyageur Press, 1994). Properly installed, these will prevail
against all climbing predators - including snakes. This guard uses
5- or 6-inch galvanized vent pipe.
We use these on all our pole-mounted houses and they have
eliminated all raccoon predation. Cost is less than $2.00 per
house. We've had some up for seven years now without any rusting
or lack of effectiveness, although you could probably wax them for
longer life and effect.
Jim Walters james-walters"at"uiowa.edu
Johnson County Songbird Project
1033 E. Washington
Iowa City, IA 52240-5248 (319) 466-1134
U.S.A.
Subj: Re: Predator control
Date: 9/22/99 12:45:26 AM Central Daylight Time
From: springer"at"alltel.net (Gary Springer)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: springer"at"alltel.net
To: james-walters"at"uiowa.edu
CC: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L), springer"at"alltel.net
(Gary Springer)
Dear Jim,
If you have been following this list closely you know that I am
very, very much for staying as natural as possible. I really had
to think a lot on this subject of grease on poles because in my
experience when applied to a one inch diameter EMT galvanized
pole, nothing reaches the box. As another person posted, its
obvious when something has tried to climb it because marks are
left in the grease. Very rarely does anything fool with it.
At this point I am not convinced that about 2 ounces of grease on
this pole negatively affects anything. I have dry skin and at a
dermotoIogist's recomendation I apply Vaseline to my face arms &
back after every shower. I have been doing this for 20 years and
most people think I'm 10 to 15 years younger than I am. Vaseline
is petroleum jelly. I am not a chemist but I would venture to say
that Vaseline is nearly the same thing as axle grease and that the
small amount of difference in composition between the two
substances would be less hazardous to the environment than the
gaseous, solid and liquid waste created when manufacturing one
baffle, especially if its galvanized.
I would appreciate learning what the differences in composition of
vaseline vs. common axle grease is and in what quantities they
exist in two ounces of grease.
If the difference is that great, I will start to use vaseline. It
will still be less expensive, less noisy, and I believe safer from
racoon predation than baffles.
Most of us mount our nest boxes low enough so that we can monitor
them without climbing. If you have to install a baffle between the
thus predetermined height of the box and the ground, you lower the
distance a racoon has to jump to get up to the box, even if its
only an inch or two.
Further, with the baffle system, you still haven't addressed the
problem of fire ants. There are absolutely no fire ant problems
with greased metal poles.
...
Subj: grease/oil contamination/fire ants
Date: 9/22/99 9:27:03 AM Central Daylight Time
From: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant Texas
Yes I am also concerned about grease/oil in the environment. I
love this subject. In 1964 we moved to Titus County Texas where
oil was first discovered in east Texas (by accident, fabulous
story) in the 1920's. They quickly built an oil refinery in Mt.
Pleasant, 12 miles south of the main oil field. By 1933 the huge
oil field was discovered in Kilgore Tx. 80 miles south by the 4
men who got rich off of the Talco field (Happy Jack Phillips
((Phillips petroleum)) & another who formed Texaco ETC). These two
fields were just brought "online" by 1939 and they produced 4
billion barrels of oil "at"$3 a barrel in the next 6 years to fuel
the allies 7 billion barrels of oil consumption for WW2 another 2
billion barrels came from west Texas fields, South America and
other states produced 1 billion.
One of the taxes the city/county fathers imposed on the refinery
was that they furnish oil and asphalt for free to our county. 400
miles of county roads were covered with 4" of "oil dirt" and 100
miles of city streets. By 1950 Titus county boasted they were the
first county to have all hard surfaced roads in the state. In 1964
the county commissioners were putting in "oil dirt" driveways for
everyone in the county for free! We got one and I was fascinated
with the oil bubbling out of the "dirt" on hot days and the
grasshoppers getting stuck in the "tar pits". I hated burning the
bottoms of my bare feet on the oil roads and mother hated us
tracking oil into the house,(couldn't take off shoes we didn't
wear!)
Each mile of road ("at" a 22' width) covers about three acres of
land, Each ton of sand requires one barrel of oil, it takes 15,000
tons per acre foot of "oil dirt" to cover a single mile of road so
we had 7.5 million barrels of dinosaur fat spread over 1,500 acres
of land. By the 1970's it was discovered that Titus county had 4
times the cancer rates of the surrounding counties without "oil
dirt" roads. After 15 years of government studies investigations
stopped because the other counties had caught up to us (they also
had "oil dirt" roads).
It was and still is legal for oil companies to mix any hazardous
waste into asphalt for roads...Ever sit at a road construction
site and watch the smoke coming out of the "hot mix"? Ever get
nauseous smelling it? Ever wonder if oil rendered from dinosaurs
is more dangerous than oil rendered (cooked) from cows, chickens
and pigs? I believe that rendered fat in our diet is still the
leading cause of heart disease & deaths in the US. I wonder if
using a few more barrels of grease a year to save a few thousand
birds from death by fire ants will really have any noticeable
effect on the environment? How many miles of asphalt roads are
there in your county? KK
Subj: RE: Predator control
Date: 9/22/99 12:01:48 PM Central Daylight Time
From: dusty"at"fsinc.com (Dusty Bleher)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: dusty"at"fsinc.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
I agree with you, James. I was going to read the rest of the list
posts before I jumped in on this one, but I find myself having to
agree with you first.
Look, I'm as interested as anyone in helping animals in general,
and our BB's in particular. And to that end I'll do a lot. I'll
even reluctantly destroy the nests of HOSP's and other nesting
competitors. I too want to keep raccoons and other non-avian
hunters from predating the nest. But using petroleum based
products on them is a bit too far out for me. Better that you
shoot the varmint. At least that's quick and it won't suffer.
Grease in the fur will destroy it's ability to keep the animal dry
and/or warm. Depending upon your climate, it can suffer terminal
hypothermia. In an effort to groom itself, it will ingest these
products. They are in and of themselves in varying degrees toxic.
If not directly by ingestion, then by other effects upon their
internal systems (I'll let Fread supply the details on this). I've
spent enough time doing volunteer rescue work on oil and petroleum
covered birds and critters to know that an animal that's ingested
those is usually put on the short list for survival efforts.
I applaud and wholeheartedly support your barrier efforts, James.
I know that it's not applicable in all situations, but I've taken
a page out of the guy from So. Cal.
experiences, and am making all of
mine hanging boxes for just that reason...
Dusty Bleher
San Jose, Ca.
...
Subj: Re: grease/oil contamination/fire ants
Date: 9/22/99 12:56:05 PM Central Daylight Time
From: birdsfly"at"innercite.com (Hatch Graham)
Sender: owner-BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Reply-to: birdsfly"at"innercite.com
To: kridler"at"1Starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
CC: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)
Hi All:
I appreciate Gary and Keith's efforts to put grease in its proper
perspective. I've kept the grease idea in the back of my mind
since the coons mazzzcred most of my birds in 1997. I put my
boxes on elevator poles because my trail is on a State Highway
Right-of-way fence. Now, instead of being mounted on the fence
posts at 4.5' high, they are still on the fence line but are 9' up
on 1/2" EMT pipe for the upper 4.5'.
The reduction in predation was immediate in the 1998 season, and
1999 was my best year ever. I lost birds to the heat but not one
to a ground predator in 1999. I believe it's possible for a
raccoon to climb up the 1/2" pipe and for a snake, also; but it
takes a lot of effort and they won't do it if they can get
something else for a meal "cheaper."
If someone decides to climb one of my elevators, I won't hesitate
to get out the graphite spray or the axle grease.
Hatch in California.
...
--
Hatch Graham, Editor, Bluebirds Fly! California Bluebird
Recovery Program
El Dorado County "at" 3100 ft, Lat 38°37'43"N, Long 120°37'47"W
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
for the encouragement and conservation of cavity
nesters
-especially bluebirds- anywhere in the West
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 09:08:18 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: nest box pole greasing instructions/ants
We are covered up with fire ants here in Northeast Georgia but
since I use greased metal poles I have never seen a single ant on
a nest box.
And, there is nothing that attract ants better than sugar water
in a hummingbird feeders.
But I mount my humming bird feeders using the same greased
metal poles I use for nest boxes.
No ants will ever cross a 6 or 8 inch wide band of grease
applied to a metal pole. The grease needs to be removed and
reapplied annually in the spring.
FOR NEST BOX POLES:
The smoother metal poles are, and the fresher the grease is,
the more unlikely any creature will be able to climb them.
I use one inch EMT poles that cost only about $3.50 each for a
ten foot length. These I pound directly into the ground which
takes about 5 minutes. ( I now use the entire length of pole and
that puts the box up about 8 and a half feet, but I used to cut
the poles so the boxes were only 6 feet high The birds have yet to
use one of the shorter poles since installing the taller ones.)
When the first eggs are laid, I apply a band of grease onto the
pole that stretches from about 6 inches from the ground up to
about 3 feet above the ground. I don't gob it on but I do make it
thick enough so it can be easily seen.
Immediately after the birds fledge, wipe the grease off taking
time to 'polish' the entire pole with the greasy rag. I do not try
to leave grease behind. The intent is to remove the grease so it
doesn't get hard making for a difficult job for the next nest
attempt or the following year.
But, when you are done 'polishing' the pole with the greasy
rag, not only will it be smoother, but there will still be a
slight invisible film left behind and this will help keep the
galvanized finish smoother for more years of great service.
Other than providing safe nesting sites for birds, one of the
advantages of using this system is that you will always know if
anything ever tries to climb the pole.
I've heard claims that snakes have been trained to climb a
greased metal pole for food, something I would love to see. But
after being discouraged after years of removing many black snakes
from nest boxes mounted on wooden posts, utility poles and high up
in trees in both Pennsylvania and Georgia, I began using these
greased metal poles.
Not only have I never seen another snake in a nest box, but, it
is quite obvious by looking at the condition of the greased poles,
that nothing has ever even crossed the two and a half foot greased
band at the bottom of the 6 foot or 8 foot metal pole.
I don't know how you feel about 'your' birds. But it gives me
an awesome feeling knowing that absolutely nothing ever goes from
the ground up to one of my nest boxes. And, it gives me an even
more awesome feeling knowing that if anything ever tries, I will
know about it.
Gary Springer
Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 11:55:12 -0400
From: "v. m. straus" v.m.straus"at"mail.wdn.com
To: springer"at"alltel.net
Cc: "List, Bluebird" bluebird-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: nest box pole greasing instructions/ants
Gary Springer wrote:
We are covered up with fire ants here in Northeast Georgia but
since I use
greased metal poles I have never seen a single ant on a nest box.
Gary and everyone on the List, I have a question.
I've read many notes about greasing poles, etc. for predator
prevention, but never have seen any comment about what happens
when grit gets caught in the
grease. Here where we live in Maryland, there is a lot of pollen,
dirt, etc. that seems would get caught in the grease and would
give the predators a "foot hold" eventually, because of the grit
becoming sort of like sand paper, especially as the grease hardens
over time.
I've also wondered about using something like paste wax instead
of grease, since if I polished the wax, it would not collect grit.
Since we have loads of raccoons, possum and black snakes, I'm
constantly worried about them getting into the Gilbertson boxes
that I have mounted on the conduit poles which I use. In the past,
some predator, probably either a raccoon or black snake, wiped out
a robin's nest (one that was move to a tree from a hanging basket
when painters were painting the house) so I have confirmation that
it can happen.
Any comments would be appreciated. VMS
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 12:37:48 -0400
From: "D. H. Snook" dhsnook"at"sssnet.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Guards, Grease vs. Wax
For the first year, I used black #2 grease on a 4" PVC pipe on
the ground. It had to be applied 2 or 3 times a season because it
dried and got full of dirt. Very messy, but effective. I used a
wide texture paint brush to apply the grease and finished with
horizontal brush strokes around the PVC pipe. I could see claw
marks on every post which were vertical. Nothing ever got more
than 1/2 way up.
I replaced all guards 3 years ago with 2' PVC pipe, 4"
diameter. I put 2 coats of Kit Wax (Carnuba) on each guard and
suspended the guard from the top, just below the bird house to
allow the bottom to wobble. Each spring all that is needed is to
clean of the winter dirt and apply one coat of wax.
I have never lost an egg or chick from ground predators. All
losses have been from HOSP and HOWR. I guess some areas of the
country have monster snakes that can reach the box by standing on
their tail, fortunately not here.
Doug Snook
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:38:28 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "NESTBOX-L" NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu, "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: Grease maintenance
VMS wrote:
Here where we live in Maryland, there is a lot of pollen, dirt,
etc. that seems would get caught in the grease and would give the
predators a "foot
hold" eventually, because of the grit becoming sort of like sand
paper, especially as the grease hardens over time.
You will have this experience everywhere, not just in Maryland.
That is why the grease is applied when the first egg is laid
and removed after the birds fledge, a period of about 30 days.
This process is repeated with each nesting so the grease can
not get hard.
Yes, if you leave the grease on for 10 months or longer, it may
be easier for the predators to climb the pole than if you use no
grease.
But, if your grease is getting tacky after only 30 to 35 days,
get a new brand of axle grease.
When you get your oil changed, almost any lube service or
service station will give you free of charge enough grease to
treat 5 or more poles for one fledge each. Just provide them with
a small jar or disposable cup. If they won't give it to you, offer
them a tip or get your lube job done somewhere else.
Gary Springer
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:49:00 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu, "NESTBOX-L"
NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: correction to nest box pole greasing instructions/ants
When I wrote the post on instructions for greasing metal poles
I was sitting in front of my computer and estimated the width of
the greased band and
described it as:
When the first eggs are laid, I apply a band of grease onto the
pole that stretches from about 6 inches from the ground up to
about 3 feet above the ground.
I just measured the width of grease on three of my nest box
poles and found them to go up to a height of about 4 and a half
feet.
Therefore, please substitute "about 3 feet above the ground" to
"4 and a half feet above the ground".
Sorry,
Gary Springer
Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 14:48:16 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu, "NESTBOX-L"
NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu,
"Laura Agnel" agnel"at"ils.unc.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: grease vs. wax/grease types
Waxing nest box poles is not nearly effective for eliminating
predators as is grease.
First, I can't imagine a wax effective enough that would be
able to make a galvanized pole slick enough to keep ants off the
box.
Second, if you use wax, I think a predator that knows for sure
there are chicks in your nest box will try to get up to the nest
box repeatedly. It may even come back for several days making
repeated and separate attempts at climbing the pole. Animals are
extremely persistent when food is within reach. And, eventually he
may develop the strength or technique to successfully climb the
pole, especially because he may have scraped some of the wax off
with its claws.
But, because predators just haven't fooled with the grease at
all on my nest box trail, I am inclined to believe they do not
like fooling with it. I can't blame them. I don't like it on my
skin either. From what I am experiencing the animals are putting
their nose to the grease and deciding right away it is something
of which they want no part. These are smart animals.
Can you imaging if you were a snake and got grease up under
your scales or if you were a raccoon and got it in the fir on your
arms, belly and neck? Would you keep on trying to climb a pole you
had to go up 6 or 8 feet to get a meal when you only made it three
feet and all you got was messy disgusting
stuff all over you?
Third, If a snake or raccoon tries to, or successfully climbs a
waxed pole and raids your nest box on the eve of the fledge date,
you will never know. That is a huge disadvantage.
One of the nicest parts of using axle grease on metal poles is
that you will always know if something tries to climb the pole.
You will also know if the creature was a mammal or a snake because
of the type of marks it left in the grease.
And, though as of this writing nothing has been able to pass
the grease band by even 2 inches or even made more that a casual
attempt, if something is successful in getting 2 or 3 inches above
the grease band, you better believe I will put gobs of grease on
the pole and the band will then be 6 feet wide, so if the predator
comes around again, he will really get messy, messy enough to
never want to even see any of my nest box poles again.
Laura Agnel asked what kind of grease I use.
I use a standard petroleum axle grease made by Exxon that is of
a greenish tint.
It is not a silicone grease.
I had a friend apply a gray silicone grease to a nest box pole
and it was left on the pole for a whole year and, as VMS
described, it got just like sandpaper. But, because I never used
this grease, I do not know if it would stay slick for 30 to 35
days or not.
I would use whatever axle grease the lube service or service
station where you take your car uses in their service bays. I'm
sure if you asked BEFORE they serviced your car they would be glad
to fill a small disposable cup for you. And, you just might get
someone else involved with providing effective nest boxes for the
birds.
Gary Springer
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 08:16:21 -0500
From: "Keith & Sandy Kridler" kridler"at"1starnet.com
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: grease on poles/sheet metal guards
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant, Texas
Grease on poles does get hard fairly quickly in some locations.
Dust storms in the western states can render it useless in a
single windblown day. Grease used where cattle can reach the poles
will disappear as cattle relish the taste of this product. Adding
hot pepper to the grease has no effect on deterring cattle licking
the now "hot" grease. Dairy cattle ingesting axle grease MIGHT
allow this compound to show up in the milk. (A dairy owner forbid
Harry Krueger to apply ANY grease to the nestbox poles on the
dairy where cattle could reach them.) Small children invariably
end up with grease on them. Yard pets can rub low applied greasy
poles and then lay on expensive furniture. You should use the
cheap disposable plastic gloves to protect your skin when you
apply this grease. To keep grease from hardening you should add 1
quart of gum turpentine (NOT mineral spirits) to 5 pounds of axle
grease or about 6 fluid oz. turpentine to 1 pound of grease and
this will stay soft for an extra month. (Harry Krueger of Ore
City, Texas "non hardening" grease recipe to repel fire ants) A
little more or a little less depending on brand of grease. Avoid
lithium based grease as exposure to sun and dry winds creates
lithium oxide and this is a toxic substance.
Conical sheetmetal guards: When used to protect wood duck boxes
they must be 48" in diameter as 36" diameter guards WILL NOT stop
even the "small" southern breed of raccoons in Texas. These 48"
guards are too large and expensive to be used on bluebird boxes.
Wood duck boxes mounted to 120" (10 feet) tall 4" PVC pipe
(mounting poles rigidly anchored) WILL NOT stop raccoons from
climbing to the top and raiding wood duck boxes! One year of
"weathering" the pipe allowed for mass failure of many Texas wood
duck colonies. (Research done by Texas Parks and Wildlife) 48"
diameter sheet metal guards WILL NOT stop snakes over 72" long
from crossing them to reach a nestbox. (Research done by Jack
Finch of Bailey North Carolina.)
Sandwich guards: Made from two flat pieces of sheetmetal 18"
wide and 36" long and pinned together making a sandwich out of the
mounting pole with the
guard 36" tall and 18" wide were VERY effective when first used at
stopping raccoons. Using rock climber techniques, they learned to
grasp each flat,
sharp edge of these metal guards and simply walk up the guard to
reach the nest. These plans are still in many publications 20
years after home video shows coons climbing over them in just
seconds.
Ron Kingston's stove pipe guard: This guard mounted as high as
possible and allowed to wobble freely is currently the "Best" all
around deterrent with the least maintenance to climbing predators
and grease can be applied under the guard protecting it from
unwanted contact with animals and keeping it cleaner and softer to
repel ants longer. It should be made in 8" diameter and not the 7"
which is published in some books or publications. I believe Ron
mentioned that a typo changed the diameter of the original guard
and the mistake has been "copied" repeatedly.
Waxed & polished pipe/conduit:** I believe Steve Eno in
Nebraska is or was doing research on climbing abilities of
raccoons and don't quote me as this
is third hand but I believe that he found raccoons were able to
"easily" climb small diameter, highly polished, waxed conduit to
get to food. Maybe
Caroline Hall on the list could pass along this much needed
research of Steve's. One of the major problems with his raccoon
research was that the
test subjects were constantly escaping a "raccoon proof" pen.
**This is ALL second hand knowledge of the raccoon testing of
Steve's so if you save or
forward it on to someone this information might be totally wrong!
KK
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:42:18 -0500
From: "Gilliam, Jay" GILLIAMJT"at"phibred.com
To: "'springer"at"alltel.net'" springer"at"alltel.net,
BLUEBIRD-L BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Evidence of Nestbox Robbing
Gary wrote---
"This is especially alarming because unless grease is used on
the pole, the snake leaves little or no evidence behind that lets
the birder know the nest was robbed."
I would think that some or all of the eggs missing from a
nestbox is plenty of evidence to let the birder know that the nest
was robbed.
Jay Gilliam
Norwalk, IA
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:40:18 -0500
From: "Gilliam, Jay" Jay.Gilliam"at"pioneer.com
To: "'springer"at"alltel.net'" springer"at"alltel.net,
BLUEBIRD-L BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Greased Poles
Hi Gary---
I was wondering how you avoid getting grease all over you since
you mount your boxes on your telescoping poles (8'-10' high) then
apply grease to them. Do you just grease the bottom section?
Jay Gilliam
Norwalk, IA
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Springer [mailto:springer"at"alltel.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 9:05 PM
To: BLUEBIRD-L
Cc: Gary Springer
Subject: Wrens/Weather
When I got tired of the mysterious disappearance of eggs and
chicks from my nest boxes, when I became aware that my heart
almost stopped beating from the shock of opening a nest box and
coming nose to nose with a snake, and when I had enough flying
squirrels and winter mice nests on my bluebird trail, I took the
advice of the North American Bluebird Society to mount nest boxes
on metal poles and make them slick by coating them with grease..
I began mounting them on three quarter inch steel pipe. To
connect the nest box to the top of the pole, I used the threaded
metal pipe flange made to go on this type of pipe.
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 12:54:34 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "Gilliam, Jay" Jay.Gilliam"at"pioneer.com,"BLUEBIRD-L"
BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: Re: Greased Poles
Hi Jay,
Using the telescopic system I described a while back in which
boxes are mounted 10 feet and higher, the only part of the top
pole that is touched during the raising or lowering process is the
bottom foot or two. That leaves 8 feet of pole you can grease any
way desired. I put no grease on the pole that is pounded into the
ground.
Of course there are an infinite number of telescopic mounting
possibilities and the one you use will dictate where to apply the
grease.
I'll be writing more about telescopic poles in the not too
distant future.
Gary Springer
We are finally getting a heavy rain in this holler.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gilliam, Jay" Jay.Gilliam"at"pioneer.com
To: springer"at"alltel.net; "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: Greased Poles
Hi Gary---
I was wondering how you avoid getting grease all over you since
you
mount your boxes on your telescoping poles (8'-10' high) then
apply grease
to them. Do you just grease the bottom section?
Jay Gilliam
Norwalk, IA
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 03:58:33 -0400
From: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
To: "NESTBOX-L" NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu, "BLUEBIRD-L"
BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu,
ssprings"at"salmoncountry.net
Cc: "Gary Springer" springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: Bears and grease on poles
Hi Dave,
Applying grease to nest box poles as a predator deterrent is a
practice that has been widely published, used and debated.
Therefore, I suspect that if grease does attract bears to nest
boxes, others have had this problem and their experiences will
eventually reach us. But you may simply be the first one to
recognize this problem.
I am very aware that some mammals do like the taste of grease
and it is quite possible the grease is what attracted your bear.
It is also possible the grease had nothing to do with the
destruction of your nest boxes.
I have read of bears destroying nest boxes.
If others have had bears destroy nest boxes even though they
did not use grease, it may be coincidence that your nest boxes
were destroyed the first year you employed grease.
I will forward your post to another list to see if others have
had experiences such as yours and also to determine if others that
do not use grease regularly lose nest boxes to bears.
I also hope you will post next year to let us know whether or
not you continue to have problems with bears even though you have
discontinued the use of grease as a predator deterrent.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Sincerely,
Gary Springer
Original Message:
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 23:22:21 -0600
From: "David and Kathy Richmond" ssprings"at"salmoncountry.net
To: NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: Wrens/Weather
Gary,
I thoroughly enjoy your posts to this list, but must add one
caveat to your briefly-mentioned recommendation of adding grease
to your EMT pole. This year, for the first time since 1993
providing homes for MOBLs here in the mountains of Idaho, I
applied grease to all nestboxes that had its full contingent of
eggs. Out of 26 boxes on my trail, 6 were marauded by a black
bear, and each time the EMT had been coated with grease. The dirty
deeds (EMT bent over completely, boxes ripped apart and contents
swallowed) included 3 broods of MOBLs which were within a few days
of fledging. I lost 15 MOBLs and 19 MOCHs to this bear and I'm
concerned that the grease may be an attractant to bears, bringing
them into close range of the box, then they hear/smell the young
inside, and the rest is history.
I don't know if this has ever been investigated or even
reported, but you can be sure that I will never use grease on my
EMT again. I have had very infrequent problems with snakes in the
past, but this year has been disheartening and I'm attributing it
to the grease.
So, my suggestion is this: if bears are a possible intruder in
your area, don't apply anything, including grease, to your poles.
It might just attract the worst kind of predator, and intelligent
one that I love to see and experience, but one who has no idea of
the value I place on those little birds.
Dave Richmond
Rocky Mountain Blues
6,200 to 7,000 feet elevation in the Central Idaho Rockies
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 13:49:03 -0700
From: John Schuster John"at"KABAaudio.com
To: springer"at"alltel.net
Cc: NESTBOX-L NESTBOX-L"at"cornell.edu, BLUEBIRD-L BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu,
ssprings"at"salmoncountry.net
Subject: Grease, Bluebirds and Bears, Oh My!
Dear Friends,
Bears destroying nesting boxes? Now that's a good question. I'm
with Gary and David on most of their points, and yes, one could
almost say that grease and bears do go hand in hand.
When I worked for CDF we heard allot of stories (some funny
some tragic) about campers cooking bacon in their camps and bears
in California. However, I'll refrain from telling these stories
and will get back to the issue at hand.
Regardless of the grease, and because of the racket the baby
BBs make, an opportunistic predator could be attracted to the
nesting boxes based on that alone in my humble opinion. However,
lets assume for a moment that the grease is actually attracting
the bears (which maybe the case).
I would follow David's advice and stop using grease and see
what happens, but there is another issue that seems to be over
looked that I will bring up later.
If you still think you have to use grease, then lets get rid of
the grease and move to a synthetic oil product (STP or
equivalent). Synthetic oil products may not be as "tasty" as
grease and I remember reading somewhere that synthetic oil
produces do not harden, cake or dry out like grease does.
Now here is the bigger picture that I eluted to earlier.
This marauding bear (or bears) is now accustom to and educated
by your nesting boxes. It is very likely that it (or they) see
your nesting boxes as a source
of food and merriment.
It is my opinion that you should look into a pepper mixer
deterrent (I may have one) that you could blend which is not
lethal to either predator or prey (like
ground Jalapeņos peppers or equivalent).
By properly applying a pepper solution to the sides of or on
the mounting poles (blended with grease, STP or not) of the
nesting boxes these marauders will have a new found respect for
your nesting boxes. They will then leave them alone and will seek
more appetizing and less "HOT" targets elsewhere.
Keep me posted and I look forward to hearing from you in the
future.
Happy Bluebird Trails To You,
John Schuster
Field Vineyards and
Wild Wing Company
Cotati, Cloverdale & Potter Valley, CA
Gary Springer wrote:
Hi Dave,
Applying grease to nest box poles as a predator deterrent is a
practice that
...
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 08:21:09 EDT
From: "Rwatts" rwatts"at"mymailstation.com
To: bluebird-l"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re:Grease, Bluebirds and Bears, Oh My!
It is my opinion that you should look into a pepper mixer
deterrent (I may have one) that you could blend which is not
lethal to either predator or prey (like ground Jalapes peppers or
equivalent).
Why didn't I think of this!!! There are several preparations
commercially available for horses (who sometimes amuse themselves
by beavering at the fences and woodwork). The best I've found is "Cribox",
made by the Hydrophane company. It's a paste, easily applied by
fingers or a putty knife ("easily" in warm weather, that is, and
*don't* rub your eyes if you use fingers!), lasts well, non-
harmful. Active ingredient is capsaicin sp?, VERY hot. Should be
easy to smear on posts, sides of box, etc.
Try the local feed store or tack shop--if they don't have
Cribox they might have something else. But I'm betting on the
Cribox as the best shot for coons, too--bet they won't like the
taste of their paws after trying to climb a post with Cribox on!!
(I notice that the horses seem to get the point when they sniff
it.)
Rhonda Watts
Wilton, N.H.
From: "Mandy Hils" ahils"at"insightbb.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)
Subject: Greasing poles
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:06:24 -0400
Hi all,
It looks as if the pair of eastern blues that have been
visiting are (maybe?) getting serious about the box out back. What
kind of grease should I use on my conduit(mounting) pole? I have
had racoon problems in the past, of course last year I had my
boxes mounted on trees. (I learned that lesson the hard way)
Sincerely,
Mandy (Kenton cty, KY)
From: TomGaryH"at"aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:43:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Greasing poles
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu (BLUEBIRD-L)
Mandy,
Grease may not stop a raccoon from climbing the conduit. The
Kingston 8-inch stovepipe baffle would be a much better choice to
prevent raccoons from getting to the box. However, grease is a
very good barrier to keep ants from getting to the nestbox.
General purpose, chassis, or wheel bearing greases may be used on
the conduit. These can be bought at K- or Walmart or auto-parts
stores. After application, periodically check and reapply as may
be required -the surface of grease tends to "scab" over. Vaseline
(petroleum jelly) is also acceptable for stopping ants. The useful
life of all of these petroleum products can be drastically
shortened by dust, dirt and water (eg., lawn sprinker or rain).
Tom Heintzelman
Milton, Santa Rosa County, FL (western panhandle, inland) U.S.A.
30° 38' 33"N 087° 03' 32"W Zone 8 Eastern Bluebirds
From: "Keith & Sandy Kridler" kridler"at"1starnet.com
To: "BLUEBIRD-L" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re:Guarding against raccoons
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:55:22 -0500
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant Texas
Adding oils or grease to wood posts will not deter climbing
predators because it will soak into the wood and the posts are
normally not very smooth. Oil or grease is sometimes added to
metal poles to make it "harder" for climbing predators and even
then it only works to a degree!
Snakes will crawl right through extremely thick coatings of
grease and when they enter a nestbox they will scrape off a
"donut" of grease that sticks around the entrance hole. Extremely
thick coatings of grease on metal pipe will often have young
raccoons crawl right up and over the grease and it works pretty
well at protecting the birds in the nestbox because the young
raccoon when it reaches the nestbox top is more concerned with
removing the sticky grease than it is with trying to reach in and
eat a meal now!!!!
If you have been using grease on poles for many years the older
raccoons will have already learned to avoid the grease but it is
more of an inconvenience than a deterrent. It probably depends on
if they are starving or can get an easier meal somewhere else as
to how well this will work. Remember that in urban areas cats roam
at night and can easily jump up to 6 feet off of the ground and
could clear most baffles and guards on the "average" nestbox
height of about 5 feet. For those who "think" they don't have
predators coming into their yard , go out and buy three little
cans of cat food and open and place them at three different
locations on your property and see if something eats them.....
This said the box mounted to a porch is probably safer from
"wild" creatures than one mounted down along a rural fence line!
These birds face life and death situations every hour of their
short lives! Now that you are learning more add a couple of boxes
in better locations on better mounting poles for their next
nesting but don't be surprised if they return to the "porch"
located nestbox!
One of our Texas Master Gardeners protects his garden by
installing motion detector lights! At first he simply removed the
bulbs and plugged in an extension cord into a light socket adaptor
and ran the cord from the garden to his bed where he plugged in a
radio.....When a warm body entered his garden the radio came on
and he woke up and went "Hunting".....His main comment about this
was, "You know I NEVER saw a cat in the yard but that first night
I was up six times with three different cats!!!" He learned that
installing light bulbs in the motion detectors worked just as well
as "hunting" because they have Great Horned Owls nesting close and
these birds learned that when the lights came on they had an easy
meal "caught in the headlights"...Another master gardener
experimented with the motion detector which triggered his electric
fence charger.....
Anyway oil or grease on poles works better for ants than
stopping real predators. It works better when it is not raining
very much or there is not dirt and dust blowing into the sticky
stuff....When you mow or use the weedeater and throw grass
clippings into the oil or grease you make it easier for them to
climb.....KK
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 03:50:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mary Wilson helenmwilson"at"yahoo.com
Subject: Advice needed on predator protection
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Hi everyone. I have about 80 boxes on poles between two golf
courses. For a long time ground predation hasn't been a problem,
but as aging and dying trees have been left standing by these
envrironmentally aware golf course managers, we are seeing signs
now of predation, I imagine by raccoons. With 80 boxes, cost is
prohibitive to put stove-pipe guards on all of them. My question
is regarding greasing the poles....what kind of grease is best?
Mixed with turpentine? Cayenne pepper added in? How far up the
pole should the grease be started? Apply it thick, like with a
putty knife, or just wipe it on with rag? And, some of these boxes
are on T-bar poles. Will grease help on those as well as the round
pipes? And, have any of you found this to be effective to any
degree? Many thanks for any help you can give.
Mary Wilson
Leamington, SW Ontario (close to Point Pelee National Park) "Sun
Parlour of Canada" (haven't lived up to our name this year)
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 08:53:41 -0400
From: "Fawzi P. Emad femad <at> fpemad <dot> com
Subject: Re: Advice needed on predator protection
To: helenmwilson"at"yahoo.com, BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
The amount of work needed to keep the grease in good condition
will make the price of the stove pipe (Kingston) predator guards a
little more attractive. Grease will soon dry and become more
viscous thus *aiding* predators in climbing up the post. It will
work well for about a month, then it has to be applied again, a
very messy job. Get the cheapest grease at an auto store, and buy
it by the gallon. It will not help applied on T-posts.
Here, the price of a finished Kingston guard (not counting your
labor,) is about $3 per guard. You probably need to apply them to
the problem boxes only, but coons can go far... Total price is
$240, I agree, not a small amount. If you don't mind the mess of
the grease, apply it thick using a spatula and a brush to even it
out. It should cover the entire post, from a little above ground
to the box. For the T-posts, use the Kingston guards... Fawzi.
Fawzi Emad in Laytonsville, Maryland
femad"AT"comcast.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Wilson" helenmwilson"at"yahoo.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 6:50 AM
Subject: Advice needed on predator protection
...
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 10:06:45 -0400
From: Superdups lisab"at"superdups.com
To: bluebirds and cavity-nesting birds BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Is Bag Balm dangerous?
I just recently cleaned out an old abandoned nest box for a
neighbor and found it overrun with ants. Living in New Hampshire,
I have never had a problem with ants and therefore I had nothing
on hand to correct the problem. Thinking quick I brushed away all
of the ants, cleaned the box and used my bag balm around the metal
pole. It is working for now, and a TUTI has been checking it out.
Does anybody know if bag balm was a bad choice or not? Thank you,
Lisa
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:00:08 -0700
From: John Schuster wildwingco"at"earthlink.net
To: lisab"at"superdups.com
CC: bluebirds and cavity-nesting birds BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: Is Bag Balm dangerous?
Dear Lisa and friends,
Bag Balm is not dangerous.
In fact I've been using Bag Balm for years and I can remember
the first can that I purchase from O'Neil Drug Store in Petaluma
CA back in 1973 and it lasted for years. I use Bag Balm mostly for
bad burns, sunburns, and chapped hands, plus Nina likes to use it
as a facial moisturizer (which I think is kind of funny) and to
prevent chapped lips.
Next to Corn Huskers, Bag Balm is the best.
With that said, what you are using it for is a first. Never
have I ever considered using Bag Balm or ever thought of using it
for what you are using is for, but I see no reason why you should
use it other than the expense.
Because Bag Balm is virtually 100% lanolin, I would like you to
continue using it to see how it holds up to the heat. I believe
that it will melt and streak down the mounting poles, so keep me
posted.
Cheers and as always...
Happy Bluebird Trails To You,
John Schuster, conservationist and owner
Wild Wing Company
Bio-Diversity Products
1179 Debbie Hill Road
Cotati, California 94931
PH: (707) 795-4440
Web site:
http://www.wildwingco.com
FIELD VINEYARDS
Check out the Vineyard Cottage offer at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~wildwingco/_wsn/page2.html
Cotati, CA
N Lat. +38.33194 & W. Long. -122.69111
Cloverdale, CA
N Lat. +38.80556 & W. Long. -123.01611
Potter Valley, CA
N Lat. +39.27306 & W. Long. -123.0925
Climate Zone: 10a (30 to 35 F)
Superdups wrote:
I just recently cleaned out an old abandoned nest box for a
neighbor
...
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