Double Roof "Echo" Nestbox AKA Shade Roof

In addition to Messages that have appeared in the Bluebird Mailing Lists on this topic, the following are on the Audubon Society of Omaha website: 

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:05:59 -0400
From: "Randy Jones" randyj"at"enter.net
To: rnelson"at"gorge.net
Cc: "Bluebird Listserve" bluebird-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: shade

I hope both Bruce Burdett and Fawzi will respond, since both have plans for what I call "echo roofs" for boxes. Many bluebirders are putting a second
roof over the first with spacers of some kind or another (Bruce uses 1" pieces of old garden hose, as I recall, Fawzi 1" blocks of wood), so that air is the main insulator. Fawzi also puts an echo side on the West side of a box which does not open on that side, against the direct heat of the afternoon sun. These interventions seem to help.

Randy Jones
Allentown PA

-----Original Message-----
From: rnelson rnelson"at"gorge.net
To: bluebird list BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Date: Monday, June 19, 2000 11:22 pm
Subject: shade

Hi! This may sound like a stupid idea, but has anyone ever heard of putting
some sort of shade canopy over the nest boxes? Everyone is talking about
the weather and we have had some high 80-low 90 degree weather lately. I
had one nest of 6 all die with no apparent injuries. I am thinking either
something happened to Mom and Dad or possibly they got too hot. My boxes
are all out in the open with no shade. I increased the number and width of
the vent holes this spring but still worry the babies will bake if the sun
gets too hot. I have thought about making some sort of shade cover that
could attach to the box somehow. Anyone ever done anything like this or
know if it will deter the birds?
I hate the idea of them being so hot they die.

Beth
Mosier, Oregon

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:06:02 EDT
From: TomGaryH"at"aol.com
To: bluebird-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: shade (echo roof)

Last year, my second year to have nesting eastern bluebirds, I created a shade roof that is probably similar to the designs by Bruce Burdett and Fawzi - what Randy Jones calls an "echo roof." I am convinced - without sientific study - that this large shade roof made a significant contribution to a very productive year. I installed the shade after the second clutch of eggs was produced. I noticed that although the ambient temperatures were much higher for the second brood than the first, the hen spent very much more time in the box. This may or may not be an indication that interior temperatures were lower than without a fabricated shade. All of the fledglings last year were strong flyers as compared to my experience of the first year. I have some detailed photos I'll scan and send as email attachments to those requesting same. Please make any request by private email. ALSO for Beth and others, I've found that changes such as adding shade roofs to nestboxes is more easily accepted when the birds have made an investment. For example, nest completely built, eggs laid, eggs hatched, babies regulating their own temperatures represent milestones for the investment made by the parents.

Tom Heintzelman, Milton, Santa Rosa County, FL (western panhandle, inland)
U.S.A.
30° 37' 30"N 087° 00' 00"W Eastern Bluebirds

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:44:52 -0400
From: "Karen Deeds-Jarvie" deeds"at"bghost.net
To: Bluebird-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Shading boxes out in the open

It's me again! The more I read about heat killing baby bluebirds the more nervous I get. We only have one nest, so we only get one chance this year to help out the cause. Just when I think that nasty male HOSP is my only problem (and no we haven't been able to catch him yet!), another potential problem crops up. Thank God for all of you, and your brilliant ideas!

Our Peterson box is out in the open. We don't have any shade in our yard, so there isn't much we can do to move it. Next year we could possibly try putting a box close to the garage overhang, but that might not prove attactive to EABLS. As you know, we already have a wire halo over the box, which the bluebirds love to perch on. Can anyone think of a material that we might suspend from the halo that would offer good sun protection to the roof of the box, yet not interfere with the effectiveness of the halo and monofililment line strung from it? I was thinking that perhaps the halo itself could be covered with something. Or I suppose we could mount something on the space below it. You know, put something flat with legs on top of the box. Am open to any suggestions. My husband is very inventive, and willing to build anything.
Thanks again!
Karen Deeds-Jarvie
B.G., Ohio

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:04:31 -0400
From: "Fawzi P. Emad femad <at> fpemad <dot> com
To: "bluebird-l" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: shade (echo roof)

I'd like to "echo" the Message below about the echo roofs. I shall ask Jim to put my plans on his informative webpage so we can all use it, it has diagrams and a short narrative. I have had heat waves and did not lose ANY babies yet (as long as they are protected by such an echo roof and side). This is not the best way for large trails: the work and expense are prohibitive, but for small and backyard trails, this will work very well. For larger trails, see KK's mail: placing a box in the right place could make the difference when a heat wave comes.
...

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 12:23:00 -0400
From: "Ruth Edwards" pinecrestfarm"at"earthlink.net
To: "Bluebird" BLUEBIRD-L"at"CORNELL.EDU
Subject: re shade

Hi Beth and Karen, Last year we had an unusually and extended very hot spell for here in southeastern Mazzzchusetts when I had about 15 EABL babies in three boxes in the open. Had to do something quick when a thermometer on the roof reached 110 degrees. I took some 3-4 inch thick styrofoam blocks that extended way larger than the roof and held them on with bungee cords. It only took a few minutes and practically no expense for the styro had been saved from shipping crates. The parents didn't mind at all and I saved all of the babies. Because of house wren problems here, my boxes pretty much have to be out in the open. Ruth Edwards, Westport, MA

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 13:18:55 -0400
From: "Bruce Burdett" blueburd"at"srnet.com
To: "Karen Deeds-Jarvie" deeds"at"bghost.net
Cc: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Shade roof(Burdett)

To: Karen Deeds-Jarvie, et al,
I've been on line with this rather simplistic suggestion a number of times. I'll run through it again with the Subject Line "Shade Roof(Burdett)" so that it can be easily found, forwarded, repeated, copied, etc., when the question comes up in the future.
Here it is:
1. The Burdett Shade Roof is basically a piece of 1/4" exterior grade plywood (or 3/8" or even 1/2") slightly longer and wider than the 'true' roof of the house.
2. It is attached to the 'true' roof with three screws, and separated from it by spacers so that the shade roof is about 1/2" or 3/4" above the 'true' roof.
3. The three screws should be long enough to pass downward through the shade roof, through the spacers, and INTO the 'true' roof but not through it.
4. For improved reflection, the shade roof may be painted some light, reflective color or earth-tone. (Someone has claimed that painting ALL roofs bluebird-blue actually seems to attract Bluebirds, though his evidence was admittedly anecdotal,)
5. The shade roof prevents direct sunlight from striking the 'true' roof.
6. The air space between the two roofs provides not only heat insulation, but also an air pazzzge for ventilation. If your roof is sharply tilted, heated air will convect slightly, upward and outward, thus improving the ventilation factor.
7. The slightly over-sized shade roof not only keeps the 'true' roof permanently shaded, but also provides a measure of predator protection, depending on how wide an overhang you contrive.
8. I suggested sections of old garden hose for spacers, but others have made their spacers of wood, plastic foam, steel washers, plastic bushings, metal conduit, or PVC pipe/tubing. Obviously, whatever you use, the spacers should be of equal length. (Do you see why, Haleya?)
9. Some have suggested that a slab of foam insulation between the roofs is even better that my air space.
10. An incidental advantage of this shade roof is that it will shed some rainwater before it ever reaches the house.

If you plan ahead a little, and have the right tools on hand, you should be able to apply (attach) this shade roof very quickly, and without disturbing the birds significantly. Once again, a good cordless drill (w.Phillips screws) is an essential addition to your arsenal. I wish you good luck, cool houses, and high success percentages. This device is NOT patented.
Bruce Burdett, NH Bluebird Conspiracy, Sunapee NH
blueburd"at"srnet.com

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 13:43:08 -0400
From: "Bruce Burdett" blueburd"at"srnet.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Shade roof(Burdett)

I should add that Bob Wilson, from Grand Junction, feels that PVC fencing is superior as a roof-cooler to anything I've suggested. He's probably right.
My problem is that nobody around here carries it, and I can't find scraps of it in the dump.
Bruce Burdett, SW NH

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 23:03:19 -0500
From: "R_C Walshaw"
To: "Bluebird Listserve"
Subject: Randy Jones - Shade

Regarding shade, cooling, etc. for nestboxes, I am at a loss to understand why this is necessary in some of the Northern states. Many of my trail boxes are open to the sun in totally unshaded areas, and we certainly have hot days here, but I don't lose birds due to the heat. I use the Stokes type box with an approximately 1/2" ventilation slot over the entrance, and the boxes are not particularly tight as we do not get excessive amounts of rain here. Boxes are made of natural cedar unpainted. Bluebird Bob, Northeast Oklahoma.

Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:36:21 -0700
From: "rnelson"
To: "bluebird list"
Subject: shade

Thanks to everyone posting their ideas and advise about 2nd roofs and shade/cooling the houses! I will be constructing some roofs and putting them up tomorrow. I checked my houses today and the swallow...Violet Green in this neck of the woods...nest has 3-4 babies which seem to be doing ok. My Bluebird nest has a large batch of 7 eggs for the 2nd nesting! I hope to be able to put the roofs on without disturbing the families....it is to be about 90 tomorrow..

Thanks again!

Beth
Mosier, OR

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 15:08:37 EDT
From: bluebirdbox"at"cox.net
To: femad"at"comcast.net
Cc: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Double Roof "Echo" Box and the new Gilwood drawings are now posted.

Fawzi,

I have just uploaded the Double Roof "Echo" Box and the new Gilwood drawings to my web site (URL to the web site is in my signature). Additionally the URL directly to the Double Roof "Echo" Box is:

http://audubon-omaha.org/bbbox/index.htmbbbox/nestbox/double.htm

and the direct URL to the new drawings for the Gilwood box are:

http://audubon-omaha.org/bbbox/index.htmbbbox/nestbox/gilwood.htm


Jim McLochlin
Omaha, NE

The Bluebird Box = http://audubon-omaha.org/bbbox/index.htm
Best of Bluebird_L Classified = http://members.aol.com/bestofbbl/bblindx.htm

"I'm a Nature Nut, and I hope you are too" - John Acorn

Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 21:08:44 -0700
From: "rnelson" rnelson"at"gorge.net
To: "bluebird list" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Human or weather?

Hi all!

Last week I put false or echo roofs up on my 3 main nestboxes....1 I can see from the house, the other 2 I cannot. I went up and checked them all on Friday and they seemed fined. The roofs went on fairly well but do weight the box down considerably. My boxes are mounted on metal poles. Today was the hottest day so far this summer 95-100. All day I was thinking how much cooler my nests would be with their new roofs. I wanted to go check the boxes tonight just to see how they faired into he hot weather ....When I got to the top of the hill where my boxes are panic set in! The swallow nest box was facing the sun and a bit askew. I looked over at my West. BB box and it too was directly facing the hot evening sun! I ran first to the West. BB and turned it around. Mama wasn't there, the eggs all in tact and of course warm. Having fixed that I hurried towards the swallow family. Mom and Dad began dive bombing me by the time I was about 30 feet away from the box. I kept going quickly to the box and righted it. I ran away from it and Ma & Pa wouldn't let up until I was a good 200' away.

Now, these nest are up on a hill where it can be windy/gusty. Usually, the strongest winds this time of year come from the west so they would hit the back of the echo roof which I can't see affecting the box. We have had light winds from the east today but seems light enough that it shouldn't turn both boxes 180 degrees into direct sunlight....

I hate to think it was people turning the boxes...it's almost as if they knew what they were doing by turning the boxes into the direct sun.....

Either way I feel extremely guilty....I hope they all make it!

Beth

Mosier, OR

P.S. good news is a new BB nest appeared in my vacant box that had the failed clutch....

Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 10:25:25 -0400
From: "Fawzi P. Emad femad <at> fpemad <dot> com
To: "bluebird-l" BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re: Human or weather?

Hi Beth and all. It is important to mount the boxes in a way that the wind cannot change their direction. Best time to put on the "second" or "echo" roof is in the afternoon so you can see which side is in the sun, thus put the shields on top and on the side facing west. At this time you can also "re-orient" the box. Now you can predict in the future which side needs the "echo" or "second" side, and thus make the other side the "opening" side...

I think such devices as echo roofs help a great deal, but the best thing is to properly place the boxes in the first place. Box placement is the most significant thing I have learned over the past two years of bluebirding...

Fawzi

...

Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:59:42 EDT
From: TomGaryH"at"aol.com
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Anti-Pole Rotation (was Human or weather?)

Tom Heintzelman, Milton, Santa Rosa County, FL (western panhandle, inland) U.S.A. 30° 37' 30"N 087° 00' 00"W Eastern Bluebirds

Here are a few methods/precautions to prevent nestboxes from becoming weather vanes, ie., where either the box rotates around the pole mount or the pole mount rotates in the ground :

1. The use of pipe hanging straps/clamps sometimes require either something like rubber gasket material to be placed between the clamp and pipe or the use of a thin strip of wood between the pipe and house in order that the strap/clamp can be tightly squeezed when fastening them together.

2. Pole mounted boxes can be fastened by round headed bolts. Bolt heads should be inside the box. Round heads should not be a source of possible
injury to the birds, however, bolts used this way that are exposed to the sun will transmit heat to the bolt's head, the intensity of which varies with box
compass orientation.

3. The use of EMT conduit allows the end that is to be put into the ground to be beaten flat for a length of say, 6 inches to 1 foot. I believe Carolyn
Hall contributed this one some time ago. It is not practical to try this with galvanized water pipe mounting poles.

4. For 1/2 and 3/4 inch galvanized water pipe, drill holes through the pipe and any piece of 1/8 inch or thicker metal flat stock. Bolting the flat stock
to the pipe where this combination will be buried in the ground stops rotation.

5. Wire a 6 inch length of treated 4 X 4 wood block to galvanized pipe where the block will be about 4 inches below the surface after the pipe is in the
ground. First, cut a "channel" on one of the sides of the 4 X 4. The channel should be slightly less wide than the pipe's outside diameter and it should
be slightly deeper than 1/2 the pipe's outside diameter. Drill two holes (about 3/16 inch diameter), one on either side of the channel at the channel's midpoint - separate the holes by a distance slightly more than the outside diameter of the pipe. Lay the pipe in the channel and wire the 4 X 4 block to the pipe using several pieces of "tie" wire. Ask the hardware folks how to use "tie" wire if you are not familiar with this. It involves twisting the wire tight with a pair of pliers.

Any one of these as well as other methods may be incorporated while birds are using the box. Plan ahead, do as much as possible beforehand, mentally rehearse, have tools ready, and if things can be done so as to little disturb adult bird routines and not rattle box contents then maybe go for it. Arrange commencement of the work just after the box has been visited by an adult. You could, for example, prefabricate a mounting pipe with a block wired to it. Then, just after a feeding, dismount a box, remove the existing pipe, put the prefabbed pipe in the ground, remount the box, retire to a distance where activities can be observed as they return to normal. I installed a stovepipe predator guard by dismounting and placing a box full of nestlings in a wheelbarrow while the work was being done. After departing the site the female only needed the male to check things before they both continued their normal routines. This, despite the altered nestbox site appearance.

Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 16:14:42 -0400
From: "Karen Deeds-Jarvie" deeds"at"bghost.net
Subject: The Burdett Shade Roof

Dear Bruce et all,

It took my husband two minutes to understand your very clear instructions. When he built the roof, however,he made one adjustment. He hinged the center so that it could fit any slat roof box. He painted it white and it was an immediate success. So much so that a male TRES tried to take over the EABL box with my four yet to hatch eggs in it. Mom and Dad were nowhere in sight (I think they are getting a bit too blaise!) so I ran out just as he fluttered to enter and screamed, "NO!" A split-second later, MOM dive-bombed him! But I'm convinced he would have entered if I hadn't given Mom that split-second. Anyway, my EABL pair are more visible again. So that's one more day toward hatching--this week I hope.

Karen Deeds-Jarvie
B.G., Ohio

P.S. Also thanks to Ann Wick and others for getting me in touch with a Peterson trap. I've got to catch my rogue sparrow so the TRES will live my EABL couple alone.

From: Sara Ann
To: emcooper"at"bayou.com
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: Nestbox hole orientation

Evelyn,
How is a second roof attached to your boxes?
Sara Ann

Make the roof larger than the original roof. Drill 4 holes in it (front and back on top of the roof) and get 1 1/2" screws to go through the holes and a 1" long small piece of hose that the screw goes through and this all screws down into the original roof.

The hose that is on the screw fits between the two roofs.

http://www.bestofbbml.audubon-omaha.org/boxesdouble.htm

The above link tells about the "Echo Roof". That is what it is called.
Evelyn

I made some of these a few years back and temperature studies done on them in comparison with "regular" boxes showed around 10 degrees difference. Here when it rises to 100 with matching humidity it becomes dangerously close to the 107 or so that we normally relate as the maximum tolerable inside the box, these boxes were ten degrees below that. I use foam insulation between the roofs, and don't forget the ventilation holes.
As far as cold weather, someone suggested I may not know anything about it. I live in Nw florida, known to the natives as Lower Alabama (LA). We are in the deep south, not the "other" Florida. And yes, it does get cold here. Seldom a freeze, but flirting with one occasionally. And my birds begin theiir season in about a week now. A few boxes have pine straw in them already.

Phil Berry
Gulf Breeze, Florida

From: Bruce Burdett [mailto:blueburd"at"verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 1:47 PM
Subject: Re Insulating 2nd roof

Sara Ann,
Make the second (topmost) roof larger tahn the main (1st) roof. Attach it with 3 or 4 screws to the main roof so that it overhangs the main rood by an inch or so on all 4 sides. HOWEVER, separate the two roofs by means of some sort of spacer - a 1/2" section of old garden hose, a nut or two, some washers, a small square of wood, - any number of things. When you finally tighten down the 2nd roof, the spacers should keep it about 1/2" or so from the main roof, so that there's a good airspace between them. Your airspace is your insulator.

Bruce Burdett

From: Sara Ann [mailto:sawright"at"direcway.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: Re Insulating 2nd roof

Thanks, Bruce!

We were just discussing this topic. Several of our BB boxes need to be replaced this spring, and this sounds like a good project to try.

Some folks stated that their BB's avoided these boxes with the second roof, except for those birds who had already started to nest before the roof was added. Would you advise waiting til birds are nesting before adding the second roof?

Sara Ann Wright
Missouri

From: Evelyn Cooper
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: Re Insulating 2nd roof

Sara Ann, I have them on nearly all of mine and never had the first problem with any avoiding them! Put them on before you install the box on the pole!

Evelyn

...

Leaving half inch or so of space is very important for folks down south who are concerned about heat.

Farther north where summer isn't as hot and the sun's rays arrive at a lower angle, the second roof can be attached directly to the lower/main roof.
A small amount of insulation is still added. I think that the extra overhang of the second roof is the biggest benefit where we often get cold rains even in July.

Personally, I add a second roof when the main roof splits or its edges become rounded from age and weather. I use a router or table saw to cut a narrow dado a quarter inch or so in from the edge around the bottom, a 'drip edge' to be sure rain water doesn't run down the board onto the nestbox or into the nest. For me, second roofs extend the life of some old nestboxes in a convenient way.
For folks hosting birds in areas where temperatures top 100 F, the second roof is often a lifesaver.

Take care,

R J 'Tree' Greenwood
Catlett VA

From: Brucemac1"at"aol.com [mailto:Brucemac1"at"aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: Insulating 2nd roof (Kinda' long)

Hello All....

I've been watching, with interest, the recent commentary about adding a second roof and filling the resulting air space with insulation.

I agree with the suggestion for making the roof larger, with greater overhang. The larger overhang does, indeed, help keep nestbox interiors cooler. The additional protection from the sun (Shade) is the answer.

The second, or ghost, roof will provide even more protection from the heat. The air-space is what does the trick. One can compare such an air space to the highly efficient air space built into the thermopane windows on many of our homes.

If the airspace is filled with insulation, the airspace principle is nullified. Material introduced into the airspace becomes a conductor of heat and will tend to increase interior temperature.

I have, for several years, been building nestboxes with larger (16" x 16") roof dimensions, including heat shields/air spaces.
A few years ago, I sent precut components for one of my boxes to Haleya Priest. She was going to assemble the box and write a review for some Bluebird Publication...??

I'll be happy to provide my rationale for the larger roof panels (there's more to the story) photos and detailed instructions to those who may be interested.

Bruce Macdonald, SW Ontario, south of Detroit

From: charlene anchor [mailto:charleneanchor"at"msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:15 AM
Subject: Roof insulation

Charlene Anchor
Central Illinois

Tree,
What do you use as insulation between your first and second roof when attaching a second roof directly to the first? Or does it matter? Thanks.

From: Bruce Burdett [mailto:blueburd"at"verizon.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: Air

Charlene, et al,
For insulation between the two roofs, I use a substance called "air." It is cheap, light, readily available, and non-conductive.
Bruce Burdett, SW NH

Air is free, but free air does not insulate. Air is a mixture of gases that contract, expand and change in density as temperatures change. Air that can move will be the same temperature as the ambient temperature, and can bring air, whether hotter or colder, to a nest box, either making it warmer or colder. Air that is trapped is another matter, and will fluctuate in temperature much more slowly than air that could freely move in and out between two spaces. If you want to cool a nest box a raised roof with free flowing air between it and the sub roof would be better. If you want to make a nest box warmer, an enclosed air space, with or without insulation would slow the heating or cooling of the inside of a nest box.

Rob Barron

From: Bruce Burdett
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: Thicker lumber

...I get my 7/8" pine at a local mill which handles nothing but white pine lumber. They cut it in many sizes and configurations.
I do leave my boxes natural except for a liberal coat of linseed oil now and then. They weather to a dull, neutral grey, much the same color as the weathered cedar shingles on a typical Cape Cod house.
I never use paint of any kind, and I use no perch dowels. Holes are round, smooth, clean Forstner-bit cuts, 1 ½" in diameter. I cut a bunch of saw-kerfs in the entrance block, just under the hole, to give the birds some extra toehold, though I doubt that they really need them. They usually hook their claws on the edge of the hole.
I can't imagine using southern yellow pine, even if I could find it up here.
...

Bruce Burdett, SW NH

From: Chuck Jensen [mailto:cjensen"at"dts9000.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: RE: 7/8" stock

The insulating advantage of thick wood stock is perhaps being overestimated. Heat conductivity is measured as K(w/m-K), so a low number is good. Here is a comparison of common materials.

Air 0.025
Wood 0.1
Aluminum 237

The dimensional difference between regular lumber at 5/8” and rough sawn at 7/8” is 2/8” or ¼”. Since wood conducts heat four times as readily as air, 0.25” of wood conducts the same heat as 0.0625” of air. So, the thick rough sawn lumber is sturdier, looks better and may last longer, but its insulating property advantage is minimal. Foil or white paint will reflect 60% to +90% of the heat which is where the big advantage can come from.

Chuck Jensen

On Wed 22 Feb 2006 at 09:15, charlene anchor <charleneanchor"at"msn.com> wrote:
> What do you use as insulation between your first and second roof when
> attaching a second roof directly to the first? Or does it matter?
> Thanks.

Charlene, I don't add foam or other insulation.
For me, the top roof is usually a repair of a box with a split in the roof. Rather than removing the old roof, gluing it up with waterproof glue, then clamping it and letting it dry and then reattaching it, I just screw a new roof on and seal around the screws with polyeurothane.

I make the new roof larger than the original and cut a groove about an eight inch in and deep on the bottom side so water drips off rather than running down the slanted board and into the nest (or into the old roof where the moisture might get trapped and cause rot).

The second roof adds protection and shade. Like thicker wood provides more insulation, a second layer of roof also adds a bit more insulation.
In my area, keeping nests dry and protected is more important than insulation, at least in my opinion. That's probably true for you in Illinois, too.

Farther south, where triple digit temperatures could cause overheating in nestboxes, adding insulation might be the difference between a nestbox fledging young or cooking nestlings in the hot sun and high ambient temperatures. I defer to those with experience coping in that climate as to the types of insulation that are effective for them.

Take care,

R J 'Tree' Greenwood
Catlett VA

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