Nestbox (Dimensions)
In addition to Messages that have appeared in the Bluebird Mailing Lists on
this topic, the following are on the Audubon Society of Omaha website:
Subj: Re: bigger
boxes - dangerous?
Date: 8/26/99 5:26:09 PM Central Daylight Time
To: BLUEBIRD-L"at"cornell.edu
...
A couple years ago I experimented with deeper boxes, 12 inches at the front.
There is no trouble with adults or young getting out because using a saw I made
several fine lines parallel to the floor about 1/4 inch apart below the entrance
hole inside the box. Simpler than building a platform. On a neighbor's box which
kept trapping Tree Swallows, I used the sharp corner of a screw driver to
scratch lines inside the box under the entrance hole of the too-nicely-planed
smooth wood. The box trapped no more birds.
I'm not just sure
how you make your platform, Dot. Guess I'm dense. The hardware cloth platform
recommended for the bottom of boxes doesn't seem to
help the blowfly problem here.
Vivian Pitzrick
Subj: Nestbox dimensions
Date: 1/5/00 3:56:19 PM Central Standard Time
From: bdarnell"at"centurytel.net (Bill Darnell)
I am a relatively new member to the list, but not to BB'ing. If I may gloat a
little, I came into a large supply of pine scraps, suitable for nest boxes
today. They had laid out in the weather for some time, so they already look
weathered.
I have made many of the "Zeleny" type boxes in the past, but was never careful,
it seems, about cavity dimensions. I measured one of the old ones today, and
found the bottom to be about 4 1/4 square. I never have kept records (will start
now) but have fledged many birds from this style box.
Question is, the "new" Zeleny calls for 5" square bottoms. Does anyone know just
how important that extra size is? If it is not "very" important, it will save me
money, because I am now rich in 4 1/4 scrap lumber! I have some bigger, but want
to use it for the tops.
Opinions, please???? While I am waiting, I will be searching also.
Also, while I am on a roll, I want to tell the list membership how thoroughly I
enjoy this list. The great info and knowledge aside, it is the most polite list
I know of, and I have been on everything from Civil War to genealogy, to sports!
The worst I have seen here was a small donnybrook when I first joined over bread
crumbs.
Thanks,
Bill
Savannah, TN
Subj: RE:Nestbox dimensions
Date: 1/5/00 4:08:30 PM Central Standard Time
From: bdarnell"at"centurytel.net (Bill Darnell)
Maybe I have already answered my question; I just pulled up http://www.nabluebirdsociety.org/e_wbox2.htm
and the plans there are exactly what I will build.
Subj: Re: nest box dimensions
Date: 1/5/00 4:21:53 PM Central Standard Time
From: kridler"at"1starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
Keith Kridler, Mt. Pleasant, Texas
Many bluebirds are fledged each year from the 4X4 box size. I personally do like
a bigger nestbox but when scrap is available in smaller sizes then this is OK
also. Remember the Gilbertson PVC box is several square inches smaller in floor
area and NABS also promotes it. These thoughts are for the Eastern Bluebird
species from the middle states to the far north. KK
Subj: Floor size
?????
Date: 1/8/00 6:39:41 AM Central Standard Time
From: racheldan1"at"compuserve.com (Dan & Rachel Thomas)
Dan Thomas Lancaster PA
Only at Bluebirding, less than a year, I have a question about the floor size of
BB boxes. It was mentioned on the list yesterday about 4 1/4 inches square not
being large enough. I just cut out 15 boxes, (front opening) and made the floor
size 3 3/4 inches square. I made them out of 7/8 inch rough cut cedar, The
reason I made the floor 3 3/4 square is that a 1 x 6 cedar board measures 5 1/2
wide, I use 1 x 6 for the sides, 1x 8 for the roof, which means I only have to
rip the front, back and floor, at 3 3/4 inches. . . . . If I make the floor size
larger than 3 3/4 inches, I end up ripping the sides out of 1 x 8 and still need
to rip the front , back and bottom. It also limits the overhang on the sides fo
the roof if I make the floor size larger. . . . Question is?? Is 3 3/4 inches
large enough ????????
Subj: Re: Floor
size ?????
Date: 1/8/00 7:25:19 AM Central Standard Time
From: bdarnell"at"centurytel.net (Bill Darnell)
...
Dan, I am using 6" stock (5 1/2) right now, and I am leaving the bottom at
5.5x4". With this, there is no ripping.
4x4 is the smallest I have used, and had good success. I recently asked the same
questions, mostly to see if there was any better information. As one respondent
stated, BB's will use a variety of dimensions. I can remember as a child (long
time ago) going to the mailbox out here in the country, and finding a BB nest in
the rear of the box.
In my opinion, the floor size is one of the least critical things about a box,
within some limitations.
Bill,
Savannah, TN, where it looks like rain.
Subj: Re: Dimensions(floor)
Date: 1/8/00 7:25:27 AM Central Standard Time
From: blueburd"at"srnet.com (Bruce Burdett)
Dan & Rachel,
The 3 3/4" floor seems small to me, but if you've got the pieces all cut out you
might as well go ahead with it and see what happens. Maybe we'll learn that 3
3/4" is just fine. I suppose you could do some edge-glueing to make wider
pieces, but that's a lot of work. If I'd bought 15 houses worth of 7/8" cedar, I
sure wouldn't want to waste any of it. I hope I didn't spoil your day.
Bruce Burdett, Sunapee NH
Subj: Re: Floor size ?????
Date: 1/8/00 8:11:14 AM Central Standard Time
From: hubertrap"at"webtv.net (Joe Huber)
Hi Dan and all, Your 3-3/4" square floor size will be eagerly used by Eastern
Bluebirds. This may not be the desired size but I know of many boxes that size
that are very successful. In southern or western areas a larger size seems to be
of better service. Warmer climate and slightly larger Mountain Bluebirds may do
better. While 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" to 5"by 5" is best all around smaller size floors
do work. Tree Swallows also have a hard time fitting in the small size. There is
one suggestion if you use the same size boards again. When cutting out sides try
using 10" wide lumber so sides can be at exactly 4" or 4-1/2". Not much waste
this way. If you are using lumber that is all only 6" wide (actually 5-1/2")
then buy some 10" lumber for sides. Best Wishes,
Joe Huber Venice Fl. Lows 60,s highs 70,s daily.
Subj: This is
long!1X6 nestboxes/vents/roof tips/observations
Date: 1/8/00 9:51:32 AM Central Standard Time
From: kridler"at"1starnet.com (Keith & Sandy Kridler)
You can make an excellent nestbox with all 1X6" lumber and never rip a board.
One of the styles we have used for over 35 years in Texas heat is made by taking
a 1X6 and cutting two 10" long pieces for sides, one 10&1/2" piece for a front,
a 15" piece for a back, a 4" ( maybe 3&3/4" with some 7/8" wood) piece for a
bottom. A 9" piece of 1x8 can make the roof because the 1x6 leaves no overhang
for the sides. This makes a nestbox that is slightly rectangular 4"X5&1/2"
inside floor and 22 square inches of floor area. All cuts are square so you have
a flat roof design with the back sticking above the roof a couple of inches and
extending below the bottom a couple of inches to allow for various mounting
methods. You can nail it to wood poles or posts, (use predator guards) or
wire/bolt it to metal poles/pipes (use predator guards). I knob off the corners
of the bottom board for drainage and allow 1/2" (or more) vent area on each side
between the roof and side, entrance hole is centered two inches down from the
roof (just allows for Huber trap). This allows for one of the inset sides to be
made to open by use of the two pivot nails/screws 3/4" down from the top edge of
the side. If you prefer the front to open you can use the same boards and inset
the front and back between the sides with no other changes.
Vents:This large vent allows me to walk up to a box and glance across the inside
top of the box and see if paper wasps have built a nest. Since cool/cold air
flows freely across the wasps favorite nesting spot they tend to avoid my style
box until later in the season, thus I miss the early nesting wasps. If I see
grass sticking up in the vent area I place a cotton glove/bandana quickly in the
entrance hole and often catch the HOSP on the nest, then install a Huber trap
and normally within 15 minutes have added another usable nestbox for native
cavity nesters. In northern areas a simple adjustable wood shutter can be added
to close down the vent for early nesting or some simply use duct tape to seal
the vent shut for first nesting attempts.
Roof:If you don't like the roof butting into the back board then cut the back
short and let the roof overhang the back of the box. A 9x12" roof is great and
you can even go with a 12x12" roof cheaply. Make a small roof and then double
over this with scrap aluminum from seamless rain gutter installers. This comes
in 12" wide rolls and is often sold to scrap iron dealers. It can be cut with
tin snips and leaves few sharp edges (round the corners).
Ron Kingston's group is using the new cement board "Hardi-board/Hardi-plank" for
doubling roofs. Again you can make a 12"x12" piece to cover your boxes. It is a
cement product and very hard to cut EXCEPT a special hand shear ($289.00) cuts
it like butter with no dust. Since it is hard to work with, lumber stores haul
the damaged sheets/boards off to land fills....I am very excited about this
product! In this area the Hardi Company has donated all the siding for three
years running for all "Habitat for Humanity" houses along with the shears! This
maybe a 20-30 year lifetime product on a nestbox roof!!! Check with local
builders for window and door cut out scrap and trade them nestboxes for precut
roof material!
Robert McKinney (a good bluebirder and editor and publisher of a monthly news
letter "THE BLUEBIRD NEWS" ((Texas version begun 19881992)). Noticed that when
the 1x6 box was "long" front to back the Eastern Bluebirds made the nest cup in
the back of the box and faced the entrance hole, when it was long side to side
she tended to make the nest cup still off center but would face a side or sit
length wise in the box, maybe to allow her tail to lay more normally level. What
if we made a box with a bottom 3"x12"? Would she build as far away from the
entrance as possible? Thus out of reach of the predators?
We need to all add a few "off the wall" styles to our nestbox trail each year!
Somewhere I have an old magazine picture from the 1920's of a New York school
with about 60 students and their nestboxes. In this picture, children with no
plans, designed and "invented" and built nearly every nestbox style in common
use today. From log boxes (Lawrence Sawyer style) to pipe boxes (Pre PVC style)
from square holes to triangle entrances, extra deep (Hill lake style) wood
tunnel predator guard (pre Jim Noel) "tree branch" (Olsen style) A-frame and
steep pitch roofs for wrens styles, dozens of NABS/Zeleny/Dick Tuttle styles.
Maybe we should give a bunch of 5th graders a contest to design a box and show
them all the "common" styles and tell them they cannot build one of these and
see what they come up with? KK
Subj: Bluebird Nesting Houses
Date: 1/9/00 8:12:38 AM Central Standard Time
From: cvhall"at"usit.net (Claude V. Hall)
Good Morning,
To answer your question (as many others before me have done), yes. Your
measurements are fine. With usiing cedar, you have chosen very wisely. The
houses should last a long time.
I have here for you URLs for two web sites providing plans for bluebird nesting
houses. Each proclaims "for North Dakota Wildlife," but that you may ignore!
They will work just as well at Lancaster! Here goes:
http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/tools/ndblinds/peteblue.htm
and/or
http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/tools/ndblinds/treeswal.htm
Of those two, the first, for the Peterson Bluebird House, probably is preferred
by the Eastern Bluebirds here in East Tennessee. It is also a bit more demanding
to make. Who knows which might be preferred by central Pennsylvania bluebirds!
I do recommend that you use the 2 1/4" high by 1 3/8" wide oval shaped entry
hole.
If you are interested, I have a suggestion for "predator-proofing" the entry
holes which I will happily provide if you e-mail me at
mailto:cvhall"at"usit.net ...
Claude
At Dandridge, Tennessee in the foothills of The Great Smoky Mountains
From: "Gilliam, Jay" jay.gilliam"at"pioneer.com
Subject: Peterson boxes--2nd Attempt
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 08:47:58 -0500
Any takers out there??
---------------
In the past I have used a 4"x4" floor in my rectangular (Iowa DNR) boxes and
a 3"x3.5" floor in my Peterson's boxes because that is what the plans called for
and it was easier with the nominal width boards I had available. I have been
collecting wood all summer and have many more wider boards available so I have
decided to make my boxes this year with bigger floors. I will be using a 5"x5"
floor in my rectangular boxes. My question concerns the Peterson box. From my
understanding, the interior dimensions of this box were designed for the nominal
2"x4" but that there was also an advantage of having a smaller floor. I've
observed how cramped the babies are in these boxes, especially a large clutch of
TRES. I am thinking of ripping down some 2"x6" boards to make Peterson boxes
that have wider interior dimensions. I would appreciate any thoughts, comments,
or advice on this before I start working on it. What would be the advantages and
disadvantages of modifying the original plan to make it wider?? What would be a
good width to use in these boxes?? Should I also make a modification to increase
the length of the floor vs the 3" original plan??
Thanks in advance---
Jay Gilliam
Norwalk, IA
From: "Keith & Sandy Kridler" kridler"at"1starnet.com
Subject: Re: Peterson Boxes 2nd attempt
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 22:27:26 -0500
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant, Texas
Well if you make ANY adjustments to ANY measurements then you do not have a
"Peterson" nestbox as they are very specific about the design of this nestbox.
On the other hand if you would make the box 5&1/2" wide instead of 3&1/2" and
say a 4" bottom length instead of the 3" then you would provide more room for
larger broods. There is old research that shows that each young bluebird needs
about 4 Square inches of floor space as they mature so that there is still room
for the adults to adequately clean the nestbox. When Art Aylesworth and company
started increasing the size of the floor of the nestboxes in Montana they were
having an upswing in population and began to experience larger clutch sizes. I
personally checked some of their boxes and saw 8 & 9 & 10 eggs and or young in
nestboxes. They were using boxes with 6"x6" bottoms and Art & some of the others
there were even trying some with 7"x7" bottoms. I think these were bigger than
needed and some of the boxes were still about 5"x5" or 25 square inches.....Erv
Davis might shed some light on whether they still prefer slightly larger nestbox
floor space.
Bluebirds tend to nest in MANY different styles and sizes of nestboxes,
mailboxes, paper tubes, and gourds so trying different sizes in nesting boxes is
a fun way to use up scrap wood and do your very own backyard experiments. You
can't call these larger boxes "Peterson" boxes and there have been others that
have increased the size to 5&1/2" wide in years past and I forget what they
called them but they had good success attracting bluebirds and other cavity
nesters to these larger nestboxes. KK
From: DottyRogers"at"netscape.net
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 12:28:57 -0400
Subject: Clutch size/box size
Hi gang,
A question for KK:
We had a cold wet spring and our blues produced more 3 and 4-egg clutches in
their first brood than usual, then more 5 and 6-eggs clutches for their second
or third clutches than expected.
Do you know if the bluebirds that had larger broods in larger floor-plan
boxes had correspondingly smaller second broods?
--I'm perhaps stupidly assuming that each female has a potential limit for
the number of viable eggs laid per season, depending on age, nutrition and
condition. Been kinda wondering about this since the unexpected flip of this
year's first/second clutches -- which made elegant sense under the
circumstances. ...
Dot, Acton Bloobie Gang
From: "Keith & Sandy Kridler"
kridler"at"1starnet.com
Subject: Re:Clutch size/box size
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 09:25:23 -0500
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant, Texas
This subject is coming up in regards to Jay G. tossing out the idea of
building a larger floor size nestbox for broods of birds he perceives to be
getting too crowded before they fledge. I mentioned the larger Mountain bluebird
broods and the larger boxes sometimes used in Montana. Trail monitors began
using larger floor area boxes when they saw larger broods. Larger boxes does not
automatically translate to larger clutch size!
I checked a wood duck box at the property I was working on yesterday and
found an old bluebird nest from this past summer that completely filled the
bottom of the duck box with over 100 square inches of floor space. I doubt if
more than 5 birds fledged from this box. We have bluebirds laying eggs from mid
to late February and will normally still be fledging young in Sept. in Texas as
we have a 200+ days of frost free growing season in this area.
In Montana where Art Aylesworth was having his trail he had recorded
measurable snowfall in every month of the year over about a 20 year period. (Not
every month every year but snow in July or August did happen!) So the birds
probably evolved to where they would lay larger clutches as in some years only
one clutch might hit a "frost free" month and they do not have the luxury of
nesting and successfully fledging four times as is fairly common even in the
northeast corner of Texas. (These are verified by trapping both adults EACH
nesting attempt!)
Diet, evolution/adaptation, health and age of the female and current weather
conditions will have a huge impact on the number of eggs laid. If you have a
female that is stuffing herself on insects in the spring and is starting to form
a string of egg yolks in her body and then a single digit freeze sweeps through
the area and not even berries can be found for 5 or 6 days then she will
re-absorb those pearls of protein for her own survival. If she is already laying
eggs then very often the female will "dump" the egg away from the box. She may
continue laying in the nest only will not incubate this clutch and will wait
several weeks and then re-nest and lay another clutch of eggs when conditions
are more favorable to feeding herself and her young.
The above is very common knowledge in both the dairy and egg production
industry. Cut off water, food or both and milk production and egg production
will cease in just a couple of days even though the adults can survive for up to
a week without water and about 2 weeks without food. Increase the amount of
vitamins and essential minerals in the diet and egg and milk production
increases.
Yes I know 7 eastern bluebirds can fledge from a 4" PVC pipe nestbox but nobody
can ask them if they are comfortable! (I have used PVC boxes since the mid
1970's.) I have watched a soccer mom put her whole team in a subcompact car to
go get ice cream across town. They would still be able to travel across the
country but would they be comfortable? What if they had to spend two weeks
touring Arizona in the heat of summer without ever leaving the car day or night?
Without air-conditioning? With only one window that could roll down half way?
What about each day the youngsters had to add another article of clothing until
on the last day they were wearing a full set of winter clothes equal to the
birds full feather coat!!!! Remember adult bluebirds cannot carry water to their
young in the nestbox! It's no wonder young bluebirds can fly so far on their
first flight!!!!
Since this is already too long it might be nice to debate advantages of
different floor areas, box thicknesses, and ventilation ETC. for the upcoming
nestbox building season! KK
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:58:33 -0400
From: Tina Phillips
cbp6"at"cornell.edu
Subject: Re:Clutch size/box size
Tina Phillips
Ithaca, NY
As some of you may know one of the major questions that TBN continues to
investigate is clutch size variation. We know certain factors can effect clutch
size such as age of the female, temperature and time of season, health of the
female, food availability, high population density, and geographic location. In
2000, we used TBN participant data to calculate what factors such as latitude,
longitude, egg-laying date, nest box volume, and year in which the clutch was
laid had significant effects on Eastern Bluebird clutch size.
Nestbox-volume showed no effect on clutch size variation, and it has been
suggested that larger boxes may actually increase the amount of energy needed to
fill the nest box and nest cup. The two most significant factors were latitude
and initial lay date. With multi-brooded birds such as bluebirds, latitudinal
variation of clutch size is highly dependent on lay date.
In the southern part of the range, the early clutches are relatively small,
clutch sizes reach a peak in the middle of the season, and clutches laid late in
the season are small again. In the northern part of their range, however, clutch
sizes decrease gradually with the laying date. The earliest clutches are, on
average, the largest, and as the season progresses, females lay smaller and
smaller clutches.
Based on the above findings, I would ask Dot what her latitude is. If she lives
in the south, the model described above makes sense. If she lives in the north,
there are probably other factors that would explain this phenomenon. My guess
would be temperature and available food resources played the most significant
role.
If anyone is interested in reading the full story about the clutch size
analysis, visit the archived Birdscope article at:
http://birds.cornell.edu/publications/birdscope/Spring2000/tbn_clutch_2000142.html
There is a similar article which also compares TBN data for TRES and EABL clutch
size variation:
http://birds.cornell.edu/birdhouse/news/geovariation.html
Andre Dhondt's work on this subject using TBN data has just been accepted for
publication in the scientific journal Ibis. It is currently in press and will be
out some time next year. The article is called "Geographic differences in
seasonal clutch size variation in multi-brooded bird species."
Hope this helps answer your question,
Tina Phillips
From: "Gary Springer"
springer"at"alltel.net
Subject: Existing or Living
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 10:09:48 -0500
Gary Springer, North East Georgia
I've always been very disturbed that birders, even well known ornithologists,
draw conclusions about nest box quality based on survival rates of the chicks.
I.e.: No dead birds means good nest box.
Not only does survival in the nest box NOT mean strong and healthy, but also,
life is more than survival.
Many young birds are lost shortly after fledge. Birds raised in a nest box that
over heats to within a couple degrees of death during the day and cools down
rapidly when night falls could not possibly be as healthy as birds raised in a
nest box that gets no warmer than the outside temperature on hot sunny days and
provides lots of insulation to keep them warmer at night.
After the young birds climb out of the nest box leaving it free of dead birds,
the challenge of reaching maturity has only begun. A high percentage of birds
are lost to predation shortly after fledge. The more healthy and strong the
newly fledged bird, the better chance it will have of avoiding capture by a
predator.
Further, it seems ornithologists and scientists equate survival with life.
If you are putting up nest boxes without ventilation slots that provide more
than 4 square inches of ventilation while, at the same time, air conditioning
your home by using electricity that is generated by burning coal, your concern
for your own personal comfort exceeds your understanding or sensitivity to the
threats of wild animals and the environment that supports life on the planet.
If you think these comments do not apply to you because you live in the more
northern states, I would appreciate your comments about "A course in bird
houses" on my web page at
http://www.realbirdhomes.com/Bird%20House%20Course%20Page%20One.htm
Gary Springer,
Old Growth Forests
http://www.realbirdhomes.com/OldGrowthForestspg1.htm
Real Bird Homes
www.realbirdhomes.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:37:36 -0400
From: Haleya Priest mablue"at"gis.net
Subject: bigger boxes
Haleya Priest Amherst MA
KK, your thoughts and all others on bigger boxes makes so much sense, but I
cringed this morning in experimenting and encouraging building bigger boxes.
With such a HUGE loss of nestlings in the northern climes this year and the
possibility of this becoming more of a norm because of global warming, I
personally am cautious about building bigger boxes that would mean even more
space to heat up for these little nestlings.
I've thought much on how to build bigger boxes and the only thing I can come up
with it to set it up in the spring to have inserts or something to make the
boxes smaller on the inside until the weather really warms up. Maybe someone can
help brainstorm with this because like KK any excuse to make more boxes is the
way to go!!!!! :-) H
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant, Texas
Interesting posts this past week! Mucky nests/larger nestboxes: It is always fun
to try different designs and historically photo's from the 1920's show nestboxes
that were HUGE compared to today's bluebird boxes. One of my old books
complained that Robins were taking over all of the bluebird nestboxes and were a
serious competitor. Sounds like the entrance holes were too big to me!
Historically entrance holes were not drilled round but most were cut square from
one of the upper corners of the box since a brace and bit was a real pain to
drill a hole with in a relatively thin board! While cutting the board you simply
cut a square corner off large enough for the birds to enter. This would create a
nestbox with an off set entrance hole. When drills and better drill bits became
more common then we also began centering the door in the front panel. The
earliest mention of a "Starling Proof" entrance hole for bluebirds comes from a
1929 publication date which states, "A bluebird entrance hole should be no
larger than a precisely cut 1&1/2" square hole to prevent the Starling from
using the bluebird nestbox."
OK we had some debate this past spring that building deeper/larger nestboxes
would only create more work for bluebirds as they wanted to build their nest to
where they could look out of the entrance hole. I
decided to experiment some and went back to the "historic" style of drilling a
hole in an upper corner right near a side. I have used some 5"x8" wide bottoms
and now have another 15 boxes with 4&1/4"x8" bottoms. This allows the bluebirds
the chance to build either in a "back" corner or build the nest right up to the
entrance hole to look out!
In limited tests NONE of the bluebirds built their nests up high enough to be
able to "look out" of the box and over half built AWAY from the entrance in a
back corner of the box. Nesting material in the larger
nestboxes has just about matched the AMOUNT of material in my standard 4&3/4"
square bottom nestboxes. Even with the deeper boxes 8" deep compared to 6&3/4"
deep MOST of the eggs are within 1" of the bottom board. So you have this really
wide looking nestbox with a hole in an upper corner of the wide front and it
gives the bluebirds a chance to build their nest where ever they want and the
young have a chance to really spread out, which they have done to flatten the
entire nest area as in a normal "small" floored nestbox.
We will never know if this is actually better for the health of the young but it
is an excuse to build more nestboxes. When building nestboxes with limited tools
pick out a simple design that contains all square cuts and wastes the least
amount of wood! In my case I use scrap wood and cannot use all I receive.
When using Joe Huber's wonderful sparrow trap the top of the entrance hole needs
to be down about 1&1/8" from the roof of the box but with Floyd Van Ert's trap
you can use slot openings right to the roof and still trap sparrows or you can
now drill a round entrance hole very near the roof simulating a real woodpecker
made cavity closer and still be able to trap out sparrows. Build and use several
styles of nestboxes and try to encourage more species using your boxes next
season! KK
Haleya Priest
mablue"at"gis.net
From: "Keith & Sandy Kridler" kridler"at"1starnet.com
Subject: Re:bigger boxes
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 10:55:06 -0500
Keith Kridler Mt. Pleasant, Texas
Hot and cold in these "bigger" boxes: I think the Cornell Data Logger results
will show that no matter how large or deep the box or how little ventilation in
a box that when the adult bird leaves the nest the eggs will rapidly lose
retained heat in relation to the outside air temperature IF the boxes are all
out of the sun's heating rays. We have to remember that these boxes have a huge
door always open in relation to the size of the cavity.
A nest should offer a little insulation and the nestcup is basically the same
depth in a large nestbox as with a small nestbox. A deeper nestbox "might" lower
the eggs/young down away from cooling breezes coming in an entrance hole. I feel
pretty certain that with very sensitive temperature measuring devices you would
be able to detect very little difference in the "attic" of a nestbox with the
female in the box or out of the box. They are having trouble with some of the
data loggers placed right in the nestcup almost touching the eggs showing any
temperature change so I would think with heat rising in a cold box what little
the female puts out will rapidly leave or dissipate in the nestbox.
These birds just don't lose very much heat through their feathers when they
fluff up. It would be like one of us putting on ski clothes and entering a
freezer and expecting our body heat to thaw out food 1 or 2 feet away. If we
place 50 lbs. of warm meat against our bare skin we might be able to keep it
warm as the female bluebirds place their bare bellies against eggs or young
birds. If it was cold or frozen meat I doubt if we could warm it up. It will be
interesting to see the data
collected at night in these boxes to see if on a cold night the box is warmer
with the female on the nest or if there is any difference when there are 5 young
birds about to fledge in a box. We have already collected the data in these
boxes and this will be one of the answers I expect to see results from in their
testing.
With the "bigger" boxes with 4&1/4" X 8" floor the nest is normally placed right
in a corner and the nestcup is very close to three sides of the nestbox. In
12"x12" bottom nestboxes once again the bluebirds normally build a standard
sized nestcup in a corner of the big box (wood duck or owl boxes or mail boxes).
It will be interesting to see if those with wood duck boxes in the north this
year had as high of losses of bluebirds which built in these types of nestboxes
over the "standard" bluebird boxes!
This "heating of the nestbox" by the adult birds should be answered this fall
when all of the data is compiled from the 25 participants as many are recording
data in different styles of nestboxes! I just sent in another 4 nestcup data
loggers from my boxes yesterday! It is WONDERFUL to be able to exchange ideas
and thoughts on these topics practically instantaneously!!!! Special thanks to
The North American Bluebird Society and Cornell for providing this forum!!!
Keith Kridler
|